8000 watt 24-volt LF split-phase 10.3 ASL 4 from China with charging function - brand new

[pilgrimvalley]

8000 watt LF SP 24volt powerjack inverter with charging arrived 2 days ago via UPS. says ASL4 on the end of box.

It has a ss case with lcd screen and charging. 51.3 pounds . (it is a lot bigger than the 6000 watt one from upower.)

definitely heavy on the transformer end. all stainless steel case with a sticker on top which surrounds the lcd screen.

had some plastic retainers for the 2 ss shields for protection of both ends. 3 of them were sheared off. i was able to take the 4th one out. then you have to remove the 2 botls from each end to remove the ss end protectors. 

outside box beat up but no physical damage to the inverter. inside box was ok. the styrofoam end packing was broke on one end but likely still saved it from further damage. the plastic parts that sheared off are an improvement over the guineypig shipping i had on the 20k inverter(but they did replace it with a new improved ss version)

i need to take the lid off to check for any interior damage before i fire it up. and maybe find some of the sheared off plastic retainer parts which would not be an issue as non-conductive.

it is definiterly a lot heavier than the 6000 watt u-power one and physically longer. I did not want he charging function so i will not be hooking that up anyways.

hopefully a new improved version as i had to wait while they manufactured it. will post pictures later.

will it do 8000 watts?

 

Edited March 23, 2021 by pilgrimvalley
add information

[pilgrimvalley]

8000 divided by 24 volts = 333.33 amps. It is hard to imagine wires fitting into the L1 L2 and N output to AC panel being able to have adequate size. likely have to go with 8 AWG max. not sure if 6AWG would fit in the inverter's connections. the bolt holding the transformer down has an angle to it and is leaning and one of the hod down brackets is bent a little. the 2021 version does have insulated hold down brackets one is a bit scuffed on top but maybe not an issue. the plastic insullator on the bottom that surrounds the transformer hold down bolt still seems intact but is angled a bit and the ss case has a dent on one side of it. it was likely dropped somewhere along the lines after production.

should i try it? will it let the smoke out?

 

 

Edited March 24, 2021 by Sid Genetry Solar
remove non-redacted address

[pilgrimvalley]

21.6 kg is about 47.628 pounds net weight .....UPS had it at 51 plus pounds so add a few pounds for the packaging materials.>>sounds about right.

12 mosfets on each side with the little zener diodes on the center leg.

2 caps for sure cant tell for sure have to look harder tomorrow.

the negative has 4 wires and the positive has 2 wires to the dc battery posts on the back. the transformer is heavy toward the controls end. other end weighs very little.

there was a little square stick on insulator pad >>> that fell off inside which must keep part of the control board from contacting the transformer. i seen a similar one in Sean's youtube video.

I will have to make a stronger shelf to mount this one on though; before i can hook it up. 24volt 8000W LFPSW split-phase inverter 10.3 ASL4 manufactured jan 21st 2021. seems they keep making changes. hopefully for the better.

[Waterman]

They still aren't filtering Line 2 and both sockets for 120 VAC are still on Line 1. Looks like they were out of red wire for the + input so they used Al wire in a heat shrink tube. And the transformer looks mighty close to the cover on the sides.

[Waterman]

Also I noticed that the newest 6k units are also using 4 screws on each side like your 8k has. So it looks like they have gone to the same size case for the 6 and 8k units. Which is a smart move as it means they don't have to stock two different cases.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

13 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:

12 mosfets on each side with the little zener diodes on the center leg.

Those'd be little ferrites on the drain lead.  Seems some say that they really help switching splash; I haven't done any research to the contrary, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it 😉

19 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:

will it do 8000 watts?

Definitely not continuously 😉

19 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:

says ASL4 on the end of box.

You'll be lucky to get a continuous 4kw out of it.

Gotta love the cost cutting: instead of a proper fan over the tranny, how about we put a picture of a fancy jet engine fan on the sticker?  That should cool superbly.

13 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:

2 caps for sure cant tell for sure have to look harder tomorrow.

Not surprised.  The issue here is the ripple current rating of the caps--often under 5A apiece.  Reducing the number of caps means that they each get more work to do--and increase their chance of failure.

[pilgrimvalley]

the 8000 watt 24-volt LF PSW 10.3 ASL4 powerjack inverter:

it is physically a lot longer than the 6000 watt one. the case is 26&1/8 inches including the posts etc sticking out of both ends, the case with out is 23&5/8 inches long;

it is 9 inches wide + 1&1/2 inches more for the mounting lips. so the base foot print is 10&1/2 inches wide.

it is 7&5/8 inches tall but the LCD is on top so you have to leave access to it.

a lot heavier with the bigger case and larger transformer at 47.628 pounds net weight.

it looks like the sticker is designed to put a fan above the transformer??? but only one fan on the end. not sure what its capabilities are but will investigate it a bit more later.

shelf mount still seems like the best option vs a wall mount.

the book has the typical powerjack girls but more information than previous manuals; unfortunately it does not specifically cover this particular model. but does cover the lfpsw splitphase in some detail better than previous manuals.

all the bolts/machine screws of the cover on the sides are 7mm nuts. the 4 screws on top are threaded into the top of the case whincj either a phillips screw driver or 7mm socket work good with. 

yes the stainless steel edges are a bit sharp, no doubt.

wonder if a different terminal block could be mounted on the side to attach the AC wires with lugs like the 15000 and 20000 watt powerjack inverters come with.

it would also be nice to have covered terminals like the yiyen inverters on the dc terminals on the other end. probablay hav e use the red electrical tape on the dc end positive terminal to make it a bit more safe. 

[pilgrimvalley]

the 8000 watt 24-volt LF PSW split phase 10.3 ASL4 powerjack inverter:

it is physically a lot longer than the 6000 watt one i have running now. the case is 26&1/8 inches including the posts etc sticking out of both ends, the case without is 23&5/8 inches long;

it is 9 inches wide + 1&1/2 inches more for the mounting lips. so the base foot print is 10&1/2 inches wide.

it is 7&5/8 inches tall but the LCD is on top so you have to leave access to it.

a lot heavier with the bigger case and larger transformer at 47.628 pounds net weight.

it looks like the sticker is designed to put a fan above the transformer??? but only one fan on the end. not sure what its capabilities are but will investigate it a bit more later.

shelf mount still seems like the best option vs a wall mount.

the booklet/user manual has the typical powerjack girls but more information than previous manuals; unfortunately it does not specifically cover this particular model. but does cover the lfpsw splitphase in some detail better than previous manuals.

all the bolts/machine screws of the cover on the sides are 7mm nuts. the 4 screws on top are threaded into the top of the case whincj either a phillips screw driver or 7mm socket work good with. 

yes the stainless steel edges are a bit sharp, no doubt.

wonder if a different terminal block could be mounted on the side to attach the AC wires with lugs like the 15000 and 20000 watt powerjack inverters come with.

it would also be nice to have covered terminals like the yiyen inverters on the dc terminals on the other end. probablay have to use the red electrical tape on the DC end positive terminal to make it a bit more safe. 

so he (Sid) says 4000 watts continuously if I am lucky - of course powerjack advertisement says it has a 32,000 watt surge rating (bragging about what it wont do). iwill test it in time see what it does. really was not expecting 8000 watts continuous anyways.

I need a way to have a switch remotely shut it down so it does not drain the battery too low. that is the biggest obstacle right now for the LiFePO4 battery bank using the SBMS0 BMS and DSSR20 solar charge controllers. slow but sure.

 I will have to study the booklet a bit more. I do not want to use the charge function through the inverter as it is off-grid. and they have many reports from Sean in the past of having problems with the charge part.

sorry if it reposts some but it said i took too long to edit it.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

1 hour ago, pilgrimvalley said:

I need a way to have a switch remotely shut it down so it does not drain the battery too low. that is the biggest obstacle right now for the LiFePO4 battery bank using the SBMS0 BMS and DSSR20 solar charge controllers. slow but sure.

You might try adjusting the "DC Volt" knob on the front, and see if it does what you need.  Gotta love PJ, all that knob does is adjust the battery voltage feedback into the CPU--which of course adjusts EVERY battery voltage setting (UVP, OVP, charge, transfer, etc.) simultaneously.  But if you're only really concerned about UVP (undervolt protection), then this knob might just get you what you need.

Keep in mind that there is no automatic restart.  An error will shut the inverter down until you manually power cycle it--unless you automate the power switch 😉.  Power switch comes from battery positive, but it's a low power signal...thus should be very easy to switch if you cook up some external system to control it (or auto reset it 😉)

[TheButcher]

5 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Those'd be little ferrites on the drain lead.  Seems some say that they really help switching splash; I haven't done any research to the contrary, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it 😉

 

A guy I know designs all sorts of stuff including many topologies of SMPSes, right down to winding custom transformers.  He uses beads on the leads of switching FETs to solve various problems.  He once built a replacement power supply for another person's bench equipment and it  outperformed the original in terms of noise by a factor of 10 but he wasn't happy so he went away and re-did the design and came back with a dead flat no noise 100% clean DC supply.

[Waterman]

4 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:

the 8000 watt 24-volt LF PSW 10.3 ASL4 powerjack inverter:

it is physically a lot longer than the 6000 watt one. the case is 26&1/8 inches including the posts etc sticking out of both ends, the case with out is 23&5/8 inches long;

it is 9 inches wide + 1&1/2 inches more for the mounting lips. so the base foot print is 10&1/2 inches wide.

it is 7&5/8 inches tall but the LCD is on top so you have to leave access to it.

a lot heavier with the bigger case and larger transformer at 47.628 pounds net weight.

 

This is the new 24Volt 6K unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6000W-LF-PSW-Split-phase-power-inverter-DC-24v-AC-110V-220v-60HZ/303622988120

This is the old 24Volt 6K unit. https://www.ebay.com/p/16040835469?iid=303897114137

This is the new 12Volt 6K unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6000W-LF-PSW-Split-phase-pure-sine-wave-power-inverter-DC12v-AC-110V-220v-60HZ/303622971718

Note the very big difference in the size. Old style has 6 screws while the new style units have 8 screws on the sides.

[dochubert]

37 minutes ago, TheButcher said:

A guy I know designs all sorts of stuff including many topologies of SMPSes, right down to winding custom transformers.

This is a guy I wish I was friends with!  Maybe he could be persuaded to wind for me two or better yet three 32v/115-230v split phase toroidal transformers with actual ratings of 5-6 kva apiece!  I would use them in parallel so they would need to be matched for pairing.   While I'm dreaming, might as well dream he'd do them for a ridiculously cheap price. (I would rather have 3 smaller transformers in parallel than one very large transformer for heat disipation reasons.)

[Sid Genetry Solar]

2 hours ago, dochubert said:

This is a guy I wish I was friends with!  Maybe he could be persuaded to wind for me two or better yet three 32v/115-230v split phase toroidal transformers with actual ratings of 5-6 kva apiece!  I would use them in parallel so they would need to be matched for pairing.   While I'm dreaming, might as well dream he'd do them for a ridiculously cheap price. (I would rather have 3 smaller transformers in parallel than one very large transformer for heat disipation reasons.)

If you have adequately sized transformer cores... @Ben could rewind them into something quite decent.  You'd have to work it out with him. 

Fun fact: the transformer in my house inverter was actually wound by him.  Night and day comparison to the AS-5 PJ tranny that originally came with it...now the cooling fans barely come on under 3-4kw loads.

[dochubert]

16 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

If you have adequately sized transformer cores... @Ben could rewind them into something quite decent.  You'd have to work it out with him. 

Thanks for that info, Sid.  I'll msg Ben and see if he is interested....

[TheButcher]

3 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Fun fact: the transformer in my house inverter was actually wound by him.  Night and day comparison to the AS-5 PJ tranny that originally came with it...now the cooling fans barely come on under 3-4kw loads.

PIctures please... and yes I know I just asked for pictures of a tranny 😮

[Sid Genetry Solar]

You can see some of the transformers he's wound at his "hello" thread:

The transformer in my house inverter isn't super easy to see here...and Ben likes to call it an "ugly transformer."  All I know is that it works great 😉

My inverter definitely won't win any internal beauty contests...but it works, and that's what matters 😉

(and yes, that's the first-gen hand-soldered balancers that have been on my LFP bank since shortly after I made it.  Been almost 4 years with absolutely no issues.)

Here's another tranny that Ben custom-wound for a customer:

This one was for a ~60v nominal system.

[pilgrimvalley]

yes,  it is an 8000 watt 24-volt LF PSW with LCD screen 10.3 ASL4 direct from china powerjack inverter (With an advertised 32000watt surge capability) ha ha. I still need to build a support shelf as it weighs over 47 pounds. and a bit over 25 inches long.

but too heavy for the light duty shelf bracket i use for the 6000 watt one.

(nothing in comparison to my 164 pound 20,000 watt powerjack inverter but it is a 48-volt monster.)

any ideas on how to make a remote switch for it? i need to be able to turn it off remotely when the lifepo4 battery gets too low.

[pilgrimvalley]

On 3/24/2021 at 2:44 PM, Sid Genetry Solar said:

You might try adjusting the "DC Volt" knob on the front, and see if it does what you need.  Gotta love PJ, all that knob does is adjust the battery voltage feedback into the CPU--which of course adjusts EVERY battery voltage setting (UVP, OVP, charge, transfer, etc.) simultaneously.  But if you're only really concerned about UVP (undervolt protection), then this knob might just get you what you need.

Keep in mind that there is no automatic restart.  An error will shut the inverter down until you manually power cycle it--unless you automate the power switch 😉.  Power switch comes from battery positive, but it's a low power signal...thus should be very easy to switch if you cook up some external system to control it (or auto reset it 😉)

i need to do it at the switch so the Electrodacus SBMS0 can turn it off and back on if the voltage of any cell in the lifepo4 battery gets too low(to prevent battery damage from overdischarge), can you tell me more how to do this? i will go take another peek at the switch. it goes both ways but i always push it to the always on direction.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

37 minutes ago, pilgrimvalley said:

i will go take another peek at the switch. it goes both ways but i always push it to the always on direction.

If you want to wire a "disable relay" in there, just put the (normally closed) contacts in series with the middle wire of the switch (that's the Common terminal).  If the relay's actuated, the inverter will be shut down.  (Or use the normally open relay contacts for the inverter to only be on if the relay's on.)