Richard Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 The care package you shipped me (many, many) months ago didn't have the 2 wires that connect up to the Rev C board from the battery posts. What size wire and ring terminals should I use? Any recommendations on length? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 27 minutes ago, Richard said: The care package you shipped me (many, many) months ago didn't have the 2 wires that connect up to the Rev C board from the battery posts. What size wire and ring terminals should I use? Any recommendations on length? Thanks. Yeah, we probably should have some of those wires made up... Anywhere from 16-12AWG wire will be fine. Ring terminals are M3--or you can just wrap the wire around the screw terminals (making sure there's no rogue strands)...and call it good. Length: shorter (within reason!) is better due to lower resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 We really need to get a CRM system implemented--it's way too easy for Sean and I to completely lose track of customers. If you're doing an inverter upgrade/repair or whatever, I am more than happy to verify that it's all wired up right and work through the upgrade process. Just let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 Don't recall seeing anything in the video regarding reconnecting the thermistor wires...? If it's there, can you provide a time stamp? I'm assuming they connect on the side with the 1,2,3... connectors...any particular order? The video really is valuable...I think I'd be begging for help if it wasn't available...thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 I have this wrong... I see that there are 2 4 pin connectors on the Rev C board, but don't know whether order matters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 3 hours ago, Richard said: I have this wrong... I see that there are 2 4 pin connectors on the Rev C board, but don't know whether order matters? Order does not matter. The A.1 / B boards have a single connector for thermistors; the C board simply adds a second connector for up to 4 temperature sensors. You can use either or both (depending on how many thermistors you have). (If I sent the C board to you, it should have a spare XHB-4 header in case you'd like to repin two of the WiFi board thermistors for the control board.) I would be more than happy to verify things via video call on Thursday evening (EST) if that works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 Here goes..... I hope you guys will give me a 12k (in sympathy) if I blow this upgraded inverter up... 🙂 Humping out to the power room now... Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 Transformer polarity error...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 On 5/2/2023 at 10:04 PM, Richard said: Transformer polarity error...? If you copied the transformer secondaries from the A.1 / B board directly to the C board--then yes, this error is expected almost immediately upon startup. ...I tried so hard to keep the AC "polarity" (phase) between the A.1/B boards and the C boards--but I managed to get them completely backwards. By the time I had realized the difference, there were already several C boards in the field...so it was too late to change it. SO...just swap the TRANSFORMER wires on the L1 and L2 control board terminals. (Not the red output wires to the front panel.) After the transformer "polarity" is correct, the next step is to check the polarity of both the AC input and AC output current sensors. (Again, I will be more than happy to go over this via video call with you.) In short: connect the inverter's AC input to an AC source (120v or 240v...doesn't matter, it will auto-switch to accept). Put a load on the inverter output (I recommend 100-400W; too big and it will trip off instantly if the current sense polarity is reversed) and watch the current readouts on the "OUT" screen on the inverter LCD. If AC Input amperage goes negative, the AC input current sensor needs flipped. You can either reverse the direction of the wires going through it OR if you're adventuresome, you can actually swap the 2 pins in the XHB-2 header of the sensor. (If you're not familiar with repinning XH/XHB headers, don't try this!) Same on the AC output: the amperage should go positive with load. If it goes negative, the AC output current sensor polarity needs flipped. NOTE: Amperage of a 120v load should read 1/2 what you expect, though the wattage should read correct. It also should not matter which side (L1-N or L2-N) that you pull the load from--it should read equally on either side. You can also check the raw sensor values from the Diagnostic Info page (OUT -> press Enter -> Down 3x should highlight "Diags" -> Enter -> scroll all the way down with "Down" to the "AC Out V/A" and "AC In V/A" lines. The rightmost number in both of those columns should go positive when a load is applied to the inverter with the inverter in pass-thru mode to an AC input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 So the negative readings on output is just a display problem, having no effect on electricity generated? If so, I'll just wait until I'm in the mood to open that unit up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 9 hours ago, Richard said: So the negative readings on output is just a display problem, having no effect on electricity generated? If the input or output sensors are backwards, it will cause any number of issues, including (but not limited to): Readouts reversed. Cumulative power subtracts instead of adds Battery charge unusable (inverter will not be able to calculate the power difference) Transfer Switch likely will trip off instantly (as it believes power is going the wrong way) AC input current limiting useless (as reversed sensors render the math completely unusable). GTM Regulate Fail errors under loads (resulting from the inverter believing that power is being backfed into the AC output terminals) ...this is why I offered several times (and continue to offer) to check things over via video call to make sure everything is wired correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 Swapped the direction of wire through the output side hall sensor and the readings all seem to be fine. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 If you ever plan to use AC input, it'd be wise to check polarity of that sensor as well--and before you "need to have it". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 So worked up over not getting this right...until about the 4th try, I went ahead and upgraded my original Rev A inverter...while I still remember that I can't follow the video without mods... Looks like i got this one right on the first try...not seeing any negative amps, or watts... The Rev C status was showing about 1000+kWh (generated already) on power up (thought it was odd)...I ran the firmware upgrade (don't know how it knew what wifi to connect to...I didn't configure it) and everything cleared to zero... (hours and kWh) Still have a question on the WiFi settings, first line, showing multiple settings??? (Scrolls through 3?) I'll run through your recommendations again after I button it up and before I put it in storage... I'm at 3 mini-splits, with another one going in soon to replace the last swamp cooler...also still running the deep well pump (at least 180' down) and the pressure pump that feeds our water to the house and more...I'm thinking I may be asking for help on Daisy Chain/Parallel (or whatever it's called) when summer rolls around and all this equipment runs 24/7... End frustration...still a big fan of GS... 🙂 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 11 hours ago, Richard said: Still have a question on the WiFi settings, first line, showing multiple settings??? (Scrolls through 3?) The WiFi settings on the 1.2x firmware are: "AP" -> Access Point (inverter generates a WiFi hotspot that you can connect a device to, i.e. for a local "remote screen") "STA" -> Station Mode (normal WiFi mode, "connect to router") "A+S" -> Access Point and Station mode. You can have the inverter both connect to your router and you can also at the same time connect a device to the inverter's WiFi network "Off" -> self-explanatory... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 11 hours ago, Richard said: The Rev C status was showing about 1000+kWh (generated already) on power up (thought it was odd)...I ran the firmware upgrade (don't know how it knew what wifi to connect to...I didn't configure it) and everything cleared to zero... (hours and kWh) WiFi credentials are stored in the LCD screen ("WiFi board"), not the control board--which it would have stored if you had connected said inverter to your network before the upgrade. KWH...it's an accumulator in the LCD. Hours is stored in the control board. 11 hours ago, Richard said: Looks like i got this one right on the first try...not seeing any negative amps, or watts... Half the fun of those current sensors...is that they don't seem to care about "polarity" direct from the factory. In other words, I can't make a blanket statement "run the wires through it this way and it'll be right"--because sometimes the sensor itself has reversed polarity. Or the wires are run to the connector backwards. Gotta love it, "AC doesn't have polarity." That may be technically correct, but it's functionally incorrect for the GS inverters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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