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PJ 8000w SP got shorted out


JSG
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Well, my inverter got shorted out. I believe both 110 sides hit the neutral together. Blew MOSFETs apart, and driver board. Have replaced both, but nothing. Only one side of the MOSFET boards light up, and the driver board gets hot enough to dis-color fairly quickly. With the driver removed, still only lights up one side of the MOSFET boards, but nothing getting hot. I believe the converter board has been smokes, but it looks ok. Would anyone happen to have any insights on where to go next? Thank you.

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Edited by JSG
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  • JSG changed the title to The 8000w sp

That's what I believe happened to mine. Both 110 hit the neutral. MOSFET boards and driver board are replaced, only one side of the MOSFETs boards light green, and the new driver board gets hot fast.

Edited by JSG
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That's what I believe happened to mine.

NOT good seeing the FETs  exploded .    The heat  will  destroy your converter board  or rev 11.3  control board needed from Powerjack .   The copper trace on the mainboard  may be crack or burned also  .  Check the mainboard for black spots .    Complete  mainboard with mosboard and cap  is about 200 dollars .   

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13 hours ago, dickson said:

Well, my inverter got shorted out. I believe both 110 sides hit the neutral together

DO you mean  grid charging input and  inverter output is on at the same time ?   

I'm trying to understand how it shorted.

This is an AMG version? You were using the universal AC output?

Was it jumpered wrong?

L1 and L2 are "110V", so you use separate neutral terminals in the 110 mode. In the 220 mode you jumper the neutrals and use the together.

Edited by RobertM
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This is an AMG version? You were using the universal AC output?

Was it jumpered wrong?

I  was thinking  he was charging the battery with inverter grid 110v input  and then switch  the inverter on output 110v  at the same time .    There should be no  grid power coming to  inverter output terminal   but grid power can come  to the inverter input  to charge the battery  and the  inverter output is shut off .        

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12 minutes ago, dickson said:

There should be no  grid power coming to  inverter output terminal   but grid power can come  to the inverter input  to charge the battery  and the  inverter output is shut off

This is not electrically possible.

If the AC input is being utilized for charge, there WILL be AC output from said AC input.

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 there WILL be AC output from said AC input.

The power from the main only go to the input of inverter  for charging  but  power from the main should  not go to the inverter output terminal  and a  transfer switch  will prevent  grid  power going to inverter .    There WILL be AC output from the inverter  AC input which is the terminal  that is charging the battery  .    I  am not sure if this is what happen to his  inverter  . I do not think he has a  transfer  switch  .    

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40 minutes ago, dickson said:

The power from the main only go to the input of inverter  for charging  but  power from the main should  not go to the inverter output terminal  and a  transfer switch  will prevent  grid  power going to inverter .

Again, not electrically possible.

All the internal relay(s) in LF inverters do, is connect the AC input to the AC output.  The AC output is directly connected to the transformer--so you get power pass-thru and the ability to use the same main transformer and same FETs for battery charge functionality.

HF inverters are different.  But we're talking LF inverters here.

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Now I am thinking maybe  he was not charging the battery .   He maybe  backfeed the grid power back to the output of the inverter  by turning on the main by accident .  I do not know what happen  .    Why one side no LED light  ?     I do not think  all 4  LED  will  be ON .    IS this PJ inverter is  where someone say it was working good and then I do not know what happen ?    The picture look like he done a lot of work setting it up .   

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3 hours ago, dickson said:

Now I am thinking maybe  he was not charging the battery .   He maybe  backfeed the grid power back to the output of the inverter  by turning on the main by accident .  I do not know what happen  .    Why one side no LED light  ?     I do not think  all 4  LED  will  be ON .    IS this PJ inverter is  where someone say it was working good and then I do not know what happen ?    The picture look like he done a lot of work setting it up .   

I have a similar inverter, and wish the guy would help us understand how it shorted. Maybe it was user error?

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Mine was user error. Period. Both l1 and l2 hit the N at the same time, yes it was hooked up to charge also. Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed. The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though. 

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Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed. The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though .    

IF  the FETs  blow up after just replacing  all the FETs  then the  mainboard may  be crack or the copper trace burn  and the solder shorted .     A  new rev 11.3  complete mainboard about 200 dollars and  rev 11.3 control board 95 dollars  will repair your inverter .     Parts available from Powerjack in China .    I  upgrade to rev 11.3  system and works good  .     

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1 hour ago, JSG said:

Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed.

Whoa, that's a huge clue...as when the power switch is off, all four MOS board lights should be on.  Is it the high side (positive battery heatsink) or low side (transformer wire heatsinks)?

Try disconnecting one primary lead of the transformer.  This will help you see exactly which quadrant is at fault.

Any visible heat damage to the rainbow ribbon cable?

 

2 hours ago, JSG said:

The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though. 

"white things" are TLP350 opto-isolated FET drivers.  I'm trying to think how it would get hot when the power switch is turned on--that's really weird.  (Probably indicates the driver board is toast though.)  Assuming you're at 48v?

I have to say, the photo of a driver board early on, showing busted low-side transistor drivers, is somewhat concerning.  The PJ driver board is NOT fully isolated--and as such, damage CAN pass upstream to the control board.  (I've seen holes blown in the CPU.)

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2 hours ago, JSG said:

Mine was user error. Period. Both l1 and l2 hit the N at the same time, yes it was hooked up to charge also. Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed. The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though. 

Thanks for the clarification. There will be some older PJ inverters listed here for sale soon, but my guess is that you have a newer PJ, and you may not be able to find the newer PJ boards from Genetry Solar. The brand new 6K from Genetry Solar is a good choice.

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I took a couple pics, to hopefully know for sure what I need. 

This is the I have been talking about, got shorted out l1+l2 went to N 🤪 I bought it as a return, came all smashed up, but worked great. I also have another sp 8000, but it appears to be an older model, I would like to get it up and going also. But this one first 🤪 And thanks for the help!

One pic is the control board, the one has a banged up crystal on it, but you can see the discoloration on the FET. The other one beside it, is a new one. Gets hot fast on that same fet. 

The MOSFET boards...one side lights up green, the other does not. Does not matter if the driver board is in or not.

I do get the green inverter light on, but no output on either sides. If you do not have the driver board in, it will start beeping after just a short time if you turn it on.

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On 10/15/2022 at 9:46 AM, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Whoa, that's a huge clue...as when the power switch is off, all four MOS board lights should be on.  Is it the high side (positive battery heatsink) or low side (transformer wire heatsinks)?

Try disconnecting one primary lead of the transformer.  This will help you see exactly which quadrant is at fault.

Any visible heat damage to the rainbow ribbon cable?

 

"white things" are TLP350 opto-isolated FET drivers.  I'm trying to think how it would get hot when the power switch is turned on--that's really weird.  (Probably indicates the driver board is toast though.)  Assuming you're at 48v?

I have to say, the photo of a driver board early on, showing busted low-side transistor drivers, is somewhat concerning.  The PJ driver board is NOT fully isolated--and as such, damage CAN pass upstream to the control board.  (I've seen holes blown in the CPU.)

Sid I just seen this! I will do this today at some point and post the results, thank you!!!!

And ALL the MOSFETs boards exploded like that, all 4 of them.

Edited by JSG
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