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I found out now it takes a lot of battery to go off-grid at night .


dickson
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Sean  live chat say  he only  run off-grid  for one hour at night  with  battery .    I  have over  40 kwh   lithium ion  battery  and  still  need to  recharge at night  .   Battery  cost more than    any   inverter  or solar panel   and the  copper wires  needed  makes  complete  off-grid  too expensive  for me .   

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I  can not run a heat pump on battery  but  run  a  large  1 hp  240vac swamp cooler  on  continously  in the summer  and refrigerator and freezer .   I  have to rechage  one third  of the  battery at the same time   I am using  the  other  two third of the baatery  to run the inverter off-grid at night .     The problem  is I  only have  6000 kw of  solar panel  to charge   two third  of the battery  during the  day   .       The battery  is only  usable  from 62 volt  to  46 volt  .       I  will need another  20000kwh  of battery  or    60000 kw of solar  panel  which is  impossible to hide in the backyard  with 7  palm trees  blocking the sun .       One  man a few  miles from  me  hide  60000 kw of solar  panel  in his backyard  and use  a  12kw inverter  with built-in  MPPT solar controller  to run his heat pump  12 hours a day  using only  solar panel  and  4 AGM  battery  .       

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I have 1/10 of the battery storage that you have. It is 2.4 kwh of LiFePO4 batteries and about 2.4 kwh of flooded batteries which cannot discharge as deeply. There is a new experimental battery technology in development that uses a molecule of carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen that can change shape and become energy-rich when exposed to sunlight. It can be stored, as a liquid, for years, and can release stored energy on demand, in the form of heat.

https://lithium-news.com/a-breakthrough-in-solar-energy-storage/

 

Edited by RobertM
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I run off grid 24/7 with 10KWH. No AC needed here and heat is powered by diesel.
Most consumption is idle draw from misc devices and freezers.
The only difficult component to deal with is the electric drier.

Thankfully the GS is very reliable. 3000 hours already and nothing to complain about.

FYI, you can buy ~2.5KWH of LiFePO4 for ~350$. (everything already done for you - just hook up) It's not really that expensive when appropriately sized...

Edited by NotMario
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FYI, you can buy ~2.5KWH of LiFePO4 for ~350$. (everything already done for you - just hook up) It's not really that expensive when appropriately sized.

My  5  MSB 60A  solar charge controller is set at  66volt  so LiFePO4  will not match  .    Used  lithium ion  BMW  car battery is 300 dollars each  include shipping tor 2.0KWH  which is what I am using .   If I  get  10 more then I  can be off-grid  at  night   but the  Delta fan sound   like a jet  engine in my back yard  so maybe  still  not be completly   off-grid  because  of the noise .   

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I have 1/10 of the battery storage that you have. It is 2.4 kwh of LiFePO4 batteries and about 2.4 kwh of flooded batteries 

I  started 3 years  ago with 4 kwh  AGM  battery  that is till being use every day .     I  use a special  AGM  charger  to keep it like new   .     I also  had  LiFePO4 batteries  but in the begining  I  let it discharge  too low  and  is  damage .     At the  time I know  nothing  about  charging  battery  .    

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It can be done but it can't be done with an on-grid lifestyle. You have to change how you live in most aspects. So do laundry during the day. Run the air conditioner hard when the sun is shining and get the house chilled and coast through the night. Put a timer on the ghost loads so they turn off while you're asleep. The electric water heater shouldn't be allowed to cycle after dark either. Etc.

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It can be done but it can't be done with an on-grid lifestyle. You have to change how you live in most aspects.   

I  can  live off-grid  on solar and battery  .    My  wife get mad  when the  house is  hot  and  do not care how much  the  heat pump  cost  in electric usage .      It is  over  100   degree  every  day now   and next month  it will be over  100  degree  all night  .    I  uae to  grow  over 100 pounds of  squash  in my backyard  but  now nothing   grow but bermuda  grass  and  russian  giant sunflowers  .   
 

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On 5/29/2022 at 6:47 AM, InPhase said:

It can be done but it can't be done with an on-grid lifestyle.

Words to live by, ...literally!

We have a very large battery bank (lifepo4) and more than enough solar to keep it charged and run the house 24/7 from late March to late October (usually!)  The exceptions are the electric dryer and the central AC, both of which run when needed only on grid power.  My 15kw powerjack can't run either one reliably so they are only grid connected. (The powerjack is really just a decent 6kw, ya know) My wife hangs the laundry out in good weather (most all the time march to october) and the central AC unit is typically only needed a couple of weeks per summer.  The oven is used in the daytime and she tries to limit its use to sunny days.  The microwave is not enough to worry about.  Two freezers and a large refrigerator, plus a well pump are the normal larger loads.

When we have consecutive rainy days (like right now!) I have to keep an eye on things but there is usually enough solar to get by on without switching to grid.  If my wife really wants to use the oven on a cloudy day I can always switch it to grid for the time she's using it.

The water heater has its own battery bank (also lifepo4), solar to charge it, and an 8kw (realistically a 3kw) powerjack that only runs the water heater in powersave mode.  The 8kw has a timer to limit it's running to daytime hours, a protection circuit to allow it to run only when the batteries are in proper voltage range, and it has been running winter and summer non-stop for nearly 2 years, providing hot water for my wife and I.

Between October and March if there's enough sun I run the house on the powerjack during the day and switch to grid overnight.  Sadly I have to use grid power a lot in december (shortest days).  I could run on batteries more than I do in winter but I'm trying to preserve my battery life by going easy on them.  Someday soon there might be no grid to switch to, then we're all on our own, like it or not.

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On 5/30/2022 at 8:34 PM, dochubert said:

Words to live by, ...literally!

We have a very large battery bank (lifepo4) and more than enough solar to keep it charged and run the house 24/7 from late March to late October (usually!)  The exceptions are the electric dryer and the central AC, both of which run when needed only on grid power.  My 15kw powerjack can't run either one reliably so they are only grid connected. (The powerjack is really just a decent 6kw, ya know) My wife hangs the laundry out in good weather (most all the time march to october) and the central AC unit is typically only needed a couple of weeks per summer.  The oven is used in the daytime and she tries to limit its use to sunny days.  The microwave is not enough to worry about.  Two freezers and a large refrigerator, plus a well pump are the normal larger loads.

When we have consecutive rainy days (like right now!) I have to keep an eye on things but there is usually enough solar to get by on without switching to grid.  If my wife really wants to use the oven on a cloudy day I can always switch it to grid for the time she's using it.

The water heater has its own battery bank (also lifepo4), solar to charge it, and an 8kw (realistically a 3kw) powerjack that only runs the water heater in powersave mode.  The 8kw has a timer to limit it's running to daytime hours, a protection circuit to allow it to run only when the batteries are in proper voltage range, and it has been running winter and summer non-stop for nearly 2 years, providing hot water for my wife and I.

Between October and March if there's enough sun I run the house on the powerjack during the day and switch to grid overnight.  Sadly I have to use grid power a lot in december (shortest days).  I could run on batteries more than I do in winter but I'm trying to preserve my battery life by going easy on them.  Someday soon there might be no grid to switch to, then we're all on our own, like it or not.

How deeply do you discharge your LiFePO4 batteries? As low as 20%? 

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How deeply do you discharge your LiFePO4 batteries? As low as 20%?
According  this youtube  he say  do not discharge  to 2.5 volts  but  discharge to 3.1 volts .    LiFePO4 batteries  has a  flat  discharge curve  and  2.5 volt  will damage the battery .   

Busting the 20%-80% SOC myth for LiFePO4 batteries.           

Jun 2, 2022       

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I saw that clip from Andy.  The only thing he busts there is the method less experienced (?) people try to do 80/20 cycling with, voltage monitoring.  80/20 cycling absolutely improves lifepo4 cycle count and he does attempt to disprove that either.  There's plenty of research out there about it going back decades (yes, lifepo4 is quite old).

Edited by TheButcher
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On 6/6/2022 at 3:17 PM, RobertM said:

How deeply do you discharge your LiFePO4 batteries? As low as 20%? 

With LiFePO4s, they actually tend to dislike being fully charged. For myself, i try to keep SOC between 75% to 25%.
So Depth Of Discharge is somewhat of a different concept compared to Lead Acids. It's not merely a "50%" or "100%" anymore, it's a SOC range; 100-40 will result in [significantly] shorter cycle life than 70-10, even though they both grant 60% capacity.

14 hours ago, TheButcher said:

I saw that clip from Andy.  The only thing he busts there is the method less experienced (?) people try to do 80/20 cycling with, voltage monitoring.  80/20 cycling absolutely improves lifepo4 cycle count and he does attempt to disprove that either.  There's plenty of research out there about it going back decades (yes, lifepo4 is quite old).

Yeah... SOC shunt is an absolute must.
The science is pretty clear. LiFePO4's are mildly damaged when fully charged, a chemical reality much the same as how 0% will kill them.

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We have a very large battery bank (lifepo4) and more than enough solar to keep it charged and run the house 24/7 from late March to late October (usually!)  The exceptions are the electric dryer and the central AC, both of which run when needed only on grid power.  My 15kw powerjack can't run either one reliably so they are only grid connected

Thank you  for showing  how you go off-grid  as I was sure  I had enough  battery power of over 40000 watts to go off-grid  24/7 .    I  been  off-grid  24/7  for the last 4 days doing what you do .    I  can use the washer but not the electric dryer .  I hang the clothes outside  and not use the  water heater .   NO  heat pump  and set the  swamp cooler  at  86 degree  when the temperature is over 100 degree every day  and it was  111 degree  yesterday .    Use the microwave  amd air fryer  but NO  oven .   Use LED for lights .    

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I haven't tried to figure the percentage.  From March to October, running 24/7 the batteries never drop below 52 volts after running the house overnight.  Even after one very cloudy day or multiple partly cloudy days.  On sunny days the overnight drop is only to about 52.5v. 

It's a very large bank.  16 BYD 24v 220ah modules configured for 48v.  They weren't new when I got them so I try to use them without pushing them overmuch.  If they will be dropping below 52 volts overnight because of long nights or bad weather(poor charging previous day) I just switch to grid overnight.  Sometime in october I usually start doing that daily.  By winter solstice I have to stay on grid most of the time.  Winter days are just too short here, and many of them have little sun.

By february I'm usually running daytime and switching to grid overnight.  Then sometime in March I can start 24/7 running again straight through to late October.

So no lower (usually) than 52v and float is set to 56v, so that's my range.

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It's a very large bank.  16 BYD 24v 220ah modules configured for 48v. 

I think that is over  80000 watt hour .    That is the amount of battery Sean say he need to  run his 5000 sq ft house  24/7 .   Sean say he has less than  10000 watt hour of battery  and can only run one hour at night .    My BMW  car battery  run between  64 v to  46 v  on a  15kw Powerjack that is 3 years old .    I can run 24/7  now .   

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The amount of energy you guys are burning through makes me almost embarrassed to say that even if I try I can only expend about 7kWh across a whole day.  That includes standard resitive water heating and an aircon in heating mode running all night maintaining  21c and .. an electric blanket to make my old joints happy since the overnight temp has been around 7c lately.

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The amount of energy you guys are burning through makes me almost embarrassed to say that even if I try I can only expend about 7kWh across a whole day

I  can not explain why dochubert  and Sean  and ME  need  so much  battery .      Maybe  240 vac single phase  need less battery  ?   

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kWh is kWh.  The batteries do need to be sized to cope with peak draw and then some to avoid flogging them but that aside...  It would be interesting to see some real world measurements of where all the power is going if for nothing more than satisfying curiosity.

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The batteries do need to be sized to cope with peak draw and then some to avoid flogging them but that aside...  It would be interesting to see some real world measurements of where all the power is going if for nothing more than satisfying curiosity.

I  will now do the  math to  show why  I will  NOT get a 12 kw sigineer and  expect to run the whole house 24/7  with  the  42000 watt hour of BMW car battery I have  .        

12,000 / 0.88 = 13,636W input for 12kw output.  That's 1,636W of heat generated at full nameplate.

SID  say  I'm sorry, but a little quiet 80mm muffin fan ain't gonna get 1,636W out of an inverter!  And of course, the hotter the transformer gets, the higher the losses go (due to the thermal resistivity of the wiring).          At night I  must  charge  the BMW battery  at the same time I am using  the battery  because  my solar can not charge all the battery  during the day .    I  am using  10  e-bike charger at 4 amps  and 65 volts which is 2600 watts very hour .   This 31200 in 12 hours  so  only 11000  left of the  42000 watt hour of battery  .   The  sigineer has 250 watt idle times 24 hour is 6000 watts  so now  only have  5000 watts left to run the  whole house  for 24 hours  but  have to subtract  1,636 W  and that  leave  3364 watt  to run my house .    NOW  running my house from  the sigineer  12kw  with 3384 watt of battery  left is NOT going to work .     I  am  able to  run  24/7  yesterday  with my 15kw PJ   and the temperature is  a high this year at  112 degree  F  and the concrete in the patio is  130 degree F  .    The Delta fans sound like  a 747  flying  overhead  all day .     

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Your logic / thought paths are about as broken as a PJ 🙂

You can't pull 15kw from the PJ at all.  You probably can't sustain 12kW from the Sigineer either but it might get there for a while.  The Sigineer might have an idle draw of 250W, where did that come from?  The PJ has idle draw too but you don't account for that.  You only subtract that 1.6kW of power with the Signeer at full tilt and it probably can't sustain that anyway.  If you draw 8kW at 88% efficiency your waste is 1.1kW, ie total load is around 9.1kW.

You can't both charge and discharge a battery.  It's one or the other.  It might oscillate back and forth but it's still one or the other.  If you are having to put 2.6kW in via a wall of ebike chargers you have made a fundamental design error with your system.  Fix the PV side so that your production is commensurate with your expected load or run at least part of your load direct of the AC supply that you are using to run the chargers instead of the chargers into the battery into the inverter.  It'll be more efficient not having to go through multiple voltage conversions and thereby cheaper no matter what the underlying source - grid or generator.

The only way the above response doesn't work is if what you stated is not what you are actually doing or is so confusingly stated that it makes a reasonable reply impossible.

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You can't pull 15kw from the PJ at all.  You probably can't sustain 12kW from the Sigineer either but it might get there for a while.  The Sigineer might have an idle draw of 250W, where did that come from? 

This  250 W of idle draw  come from your post in another topic  today .            

  6 hours ago, TheButcher said:

The high idle draw of even the lower wattage Chinese inverters is a problem.  80 watts is about 2kWh a day and that's a fair slice of the production of a small system.

yes, on a whole house system running a large inverter which is never at idle ,,,,, a Sigineer 18K LF inverter with 250 watt standby idle would not be as big a problem in a large solar panel system with a big battery bank, but still a bit of wasted solar power... so more panels needed....   

Sorry    I  know my   PJ 15 kw can  only  pull  4000  watt with the rev 11.1 control board .    I  never has a sigineer 12 kw or  seen test on it  .     I was making a (what if ) statement  or posting  what happen  with  a  high idle  draw  inverter like a sigineer 12 kw .      

MY  logic / thought paths are about as broken as a PJ 🙂     The only way the above response doesn't work is if what I   stated is not what you are actually doing   .   

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Nope.  I did not say that and the post you linked to does not show me saying 250W it shows... 80W for lower wattage Chinese inverters.  Neither does PilgrimValley's post.  The person that did say it was inPhase.  Probably best that you don't attribute one person's post to another. 🙂

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