Repaired U-Power 15k overloading too easily

[Rafaelmedina23]

I repaired my inverter with all the new parts, new mosfets board, new driver board, I even put ALL the new boards on it, it turns on well, but going from 1400w approximately it will overload, what could it be?  it is a 15k power jack.  Thank you for you help

Edited February 18, 2021 by Rafaelmedina23

[Sid Genetry Solar]

Sounds like the DIP switch settings did not get copied from the old boards to the new boards.  Depending on the board versions, the DIP switches will either be on the control board (10.3+), or on the "charger" board (v7[?], v8, v9).  Being a 15kw inverter, it probably has the big "output" board; the DIP switches should be on that.  Copy the on/off settings from the boards removed from your inverter to the one currently in it.

[Sean Genetry Solar]

take pictures and upload them here so we are able to determine the version number.

 

Thank you

[Rafaelmedina23]

[Rafaelmedina23]

All the boards you see there are new, the mosfets boards too.  Could it be that the mosfets are wrong?

[Sid Genetry Solar]

Just now, Rafaelmedina23 said:

All the boards you see there are new, the mosfets boards too.  Could it be that the mosfets are wrong?

No, those are the correct MOSFETs (NCEP60H15) for a 24v inverter.

Yellow circle: This is the problem: these DIP switches are still in the factory reset position.  I do not have the instructions for setting these up (Sean may), but you can copy the up-down positions of the switches from the old boards that used to be in the inverter (assuming you still have them).

[Rafaelmedina23]

1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Sounds like the DIP switch settings did not get copied from the old boards to the new boards.  Depending on the board versions, the DIP switches will either be on the control board (10.3+), or on the "charger" board (v7[?], v8, v9).  Being a 15kw inverter, it probably has the big "output" board; the DIP switches should be on that.  Copy the on/off settings from the boards removed from your inverter to the one currently in it.

I don't know the version, I think it's v9

[Sid Genetry Solar]

2 minutes ago, Rafaelmedina23 said:

I don't know the version, I think it's v9

Photos aren't clear enough for me to read the version number on the boards, but it looks like a v9.

EDIT: Haha, you didn't specify in the initial post that it was a U-POWER inverter.  That's just a Power Jack with a double-overspec label printed on the top...on a Power Jack which is 2-3 times over-rated for the actual output ;-).  A PJ 15KW unit would be in a huge box...but a U-POWER 15KW is basically a rebranded 8KW PJ. 

[Rafaelmedina23]

3 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

No, those are the correct MOSFETs (NCEP60H15) for a 24v inverter.

Yellow circle: This is the problem: these DIP switches are still in the factory reset position.  I do not have the instructions for setting these up (Sean may), but you can copy the up-down positions of the switches from the old boards that used to be in the inverter (assuming you still have them).

Yes, I have the old board, but I would not know how to pass that information from the old to the new.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

Renamed the topic and moved to the appropriate subforum. 

Look at the old board: the little switches will be in various up-down states.  Copy these up-down states to the new board (you may have to break/remove a small piece of yellow tape over the DIP switches.) 

It would help if you post a photo of the switches on the old board, and then of the switches on the new board after you've copied the up/down positions to verify.

Please note that setting these switches incorrectly will NOT damage your inverter, though it may overload too soon--or too late.  Getting them correctly set is the best way to get the longest possible life out of the U-POWER inverter.

[Rafaelmedina23]

2 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Renamed the topic and moved to the appropriate subforum. 

Look at the old board: the little switches will be in various up-down states.  Copy these up-down states to the new board (you may have to break/remove a small piece of yellow tape over the DIP switches.) 

It would help if you post a photo of the switches on the old board, and then of the switches on the new board after you've copied the up/down positions to verify.

Please note that setting these switches incorrectly will NOT damage your inverter, though it may overload too soon--or too late.  Getting them correctly set is the best way to get the longest possible life out of the U-POWER inverter.

Okay.  I already saw how it is, I will.

[Rafaelmedina23]

16 minutes ago, Rafaelmedina23 said:

Okay.  I already saw how it is, I will.

I did, but it's still the same.

18 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Renamed the topic and moved to the appropriate subforum. 

Look at the old board: the little switches will be in various up-down states.  Copy these up-down states to the new board (you may have to break/remove a small piece of yellow tape over the DIP switches.) 

It would help if you post a photo of the switches on the old board, and then of the switches on the new board after you've copied the up/down positions to verify.

Please note that setting these switches incorrectly will NOT damage your inverter, though it may overload too soon--or too late.  Getting them correctly set is the best way to get the longest possible life out of the U-POWER inverter.

Okay.  I already saw how it is, I will.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

Umm...not too clear what's going on there, could you clarify a bit?  Looks like a forum button or two might have gotten in the way 😁.

Are you saying that after changing the switches, it still overloads too low?

[Rafaelmedina23]

[Rafaelmedina23]

3 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Umm...not too clear what's going on there, could you clarify a bit?  Looks like a forum button or two might have gotten in the way 😁.

Are you saying that after changing the switches, it still overloads too low?

It works well with the blower on low, I put it on hi and it does

[Sid Genetry Solar]

Are you sure the DIP switches that were "up" on the old board are fully "up" on the new board?  They require a bit of force to fully move into the "up" position.  A jeweler's screwdriver set is very handy for things like that.

I am assuming it didn't use to overload with the previous boards?

[Rafaelmedina23]

4 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Are you sure the DIP switches that were "up" on the old board are fully "up" on the new board?  They require a bit of force to fully move into the "up" position.  A jeweler's screwdriver set is very handy for things like that.

I am assuming it didn't use to overload with the previous boards?

That's right, with the previous boards it didn't.  I understand that I put them right, just like the old board.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

If it's still overloading with the DIP switches set same as the old board, then @Sean Genetry Solar will have to chime in tomorrow with the official setting for the DIP switches.

[Rafaelmedina23]

15 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

If it's still overloading with the DIP switches set same as the old board, then @Sean Genetry Solar will have to chime in tomorrow with the official setting for the DIP switches.

I did, and it continues the same.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

Setting copy looks good.  @Sean Genetry Solar will have to chime in on this.  Trying to think if there's any possibility that L1 and L2 to the front panel got swapped on the control board...because the overload protection only works on one phase, not the other (go Power Jack!)  However, this would only be possible if it was a 220v inverter...but the sticker on the relay says 110v.  If you never got an overload error before replacing the boards, a wiring mistake could be considered.

[Rafaelmedina23]

21 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Setting copy looks good.  @Sean Genetry Solar will have to chime in on this.  Trying to think if there's any possibility that L1 and L2 to the front panel got swapped on the control board...because the overload protection only works on one phase, not the other (go Power Jack!)  However, this would only be possible if it was a 220v inverter...but the sticker on the relay says 110v.  If you never got an overload error before replacing the boards, a wiring mistake could be considered.

It could be, this inverter is not split phase, (they did not have neutral) I converted it into split phase, and the work was excellent, 120/220 was working very well.  The main reason why I changed all the boards and mosfets was that I had tried to put 220v at the input of the inverter to use it as a charger but it didn't work like that, that's why it had burned out, but before that it worked perfectly even though it was that relay  110v.

[Sid Genetry Solar]

9 minutes ago, Rafaelmedina23 said:

It could be, this inverter is not split phase, (they did not have neutral) I converted it into split phase, and the work was excellent, 120/220 was working very well.  The main reason why I changed all the boards and mosfets was that I had tried to put 220v at the input of the inverter to use it as a charger but it didn't work like that, that's why it had burned out, but before that it worked perfectly even though it was that relay  110v.

Gotta love a PJ...not refusing to pop the relay on with an invalid input voltage...!

Maybe you can enlighten us on the current wiring of the transformer, which wire goes where?  It sounds like the board is regulating 120vAC (i.e. L1 and Neutral go from the transformer to the control board, while L2 goes directly to the front panel, not to the board)--this being a requirement for a 120vAC charge input.

If the previous layout was running the outlet from L2 / N, while L1 / N went to the control board...then there would be no overcurrent protection on it, and you would not have encountered the overload problem.

If you changed it so the outlet is connected to the L1 output on the control board, now it will have the output current limit--which previously was only a charge current limit.

[Rafaelmedina23]

9 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Gotta love a PJ...not refusing to pop the relay on with an invalid input voltage...!

Maybe you can enlighten us on the current wiring of the transformer, which wire goes where?  It sounds like the board is regulating 120vAC (i.e. L1 and Neutral go from the transformer to the control board, while L2 goes directly to the front panel, not to the board)--this being a requirement for a 120vAC charge input.

If the previous layout was running the outlet from L2 / N, while L1 / N went to the control board...then there would be no overcurrent protection on it, and you would not have encountered the overload problem.

If you changed it so the outlet is connected to the L1 output on the control board, now it will have the output current limit--which previously was only a charge current limit.

When I did it I put all the cables in the same way, I had taken photos.

[Rafaelmedina23]

5 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Setting copy looks good.  @Sean Genetry Solar will have to chime in on this.  Trying to think if there's any possibility that L1 and L2 to the front panel got swapped on the control board...because the overload protection only works on one phase, not the other (go Power Jack!)  However, this would only be possible if it was a 220v inverter...but the sticker on the relay says 110v.  If you never got an overload error before replacing the boards, a wiring mistake could be considered.

If it were the possibility of wiring error, L2 put on L1, would this short circuit or would it go to overload?

[Sid Genetry Solar]

If L2 and L1 were connected, it would short circuit/probably blow FETs.  Overload only works on the L1 tap, so if the AC outlet was originally connected to the L2 circuit (the wire may have gone directly from the transformer to the AC outlet), it would not have any overload protection on it.