JNock Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 How do I enable the charging? It’s plugged into AC and it will not do anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Blind Wolf Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 1 hour ago, JNock said: How do I enable the charging? It’s plugged into AC and it will not do anything. Please note, check your breaker, you might have a breaker that tripped when you plugged into the outlet. if your trying to charge from the grid. Mine will trip the breaker pretty much every time, and so what I have to do is go reset the breaker and wait for a few seconds to to make sure it don't trip again. Its just the surge that trips the breaker at time. Make sure you are pulling as much as your breaker is rated for, no more then that, otherwise it will never work and you could cause a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 Well, I'm afraid you may have found some more problems with the server webapp...I don't think I have the AC input webapp readings or controls connected to anything........have to get into that and fix it. The inverter should recognize the AC input voltage on the physical LCD. If it doesn't, how long have you had your inverter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 26, 2021 Author Share Posted June 26, 2021 1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: Well, I'm afraid you may have found some more problems with the server webapp...I don't think I have the AC input webapp readings or controls connected to anything........have to get into that and fix it. The inverter should recognize the AC input voltage on the physical LCD. If it doesn't, how long have you had your inverter? I just got it Tuesday. It’s def not charging. None of the breakers are tripped, I have it plugged into my 50 amp rv outlet. I wired the shore power cord to the input of the inverter minus one leg. It reads 120v on the lcd but no charging is occurring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 26, 2021 Author Share Posted June 26, 2021 Is this not night? Should I have hooked 240v to the input instead of L1 and Neutral? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 9 hours ago, JNock said: Is this not night? Should I have hooked 240v to the input instead of L1 and Neutral? What's the top line on the "Stat" screen read? Is it SPB or SPL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 Spb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 "B" = 240v. "L" would be 120v. So that would explain why it doesn't charge with 120v 😉. Which voltage do you want? One other thing: we have become aware of an issue when connecting the inverter's 240v input to a bonded neutral breaker panel. Basically, the inverter is designed for only 2 AC input wires (L1 / L2), and only L1 is switched with a relay. The issue is when this is connected to a breaker panel with the output Neutral tied to the AC mains neutral, now the inverter has 3 AC input wires. This results in backfeeding the inverter, and it is very easy to damage it this way. It is easy to test: if you wire it up for AC input, run the following test to check: make sure the inverter is turned off Turn on the AC input breaker (or connect the AC input) Measure the AC output voltage on the inverter terminals with a meter -> should be 0v. If it reads 120 or 240v, there's a backfeed power condition which must be addressed before the inverter can be used. Obviously we will be fixing this issue in the next revision--but for the current time, the best we can do is notify customers in advance 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 54 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: "B" = 240v. "L" would be 120v. So that would explain why it doesn't charge with 120v 😉. Which voltage do you want? One other thing: we have become aware of an issue when connecting the inverter's 240v input to a bonded neutral breaker panel. Basically, the inverter is designed for only 2 AC input wires (L1 / L2), and only L1 is switched with a relay. The issue is when this is connected to a breaker panel with the output Neutral tied to the AC mains neutral, now the inverter has 3 AC input wires. This results in backfeeding the inverter, and it is very easy to damage it this way. It is easy to test: if you wire it up for AC input, run the following test to check: make sure the inverter is turned off Turn on the AC input breaker (or connect the AC input) Measure the AC output voltage on the inverter terminals with a meter -> should be 0v. If it reads 120 or 240v, there's a backfeed power condition which must be addressed before the inverter can be used. Obviously we will be fixing this issue in the next revision--but for the current time, the best we can do is notify customers in advance 😉 In a perfect world I’d like to have the option for both 120 and 240 seeing how it have it in an RV. But for now if I had to choose between the 2 I’d prefer the charge input to be 120 so I can plug it to 15 amp outlets to top off the batteries anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 8 hours ago, JNock said: In a perfect world I’d like to have the option for both 120 and 240 seeing how it have it in an RV. Yes, I've heard that from several RV'ers, and from a technical standpoint, it's not terribly difficult (will be present on Rev. C control boards). Yes, I'm listening to reasonable customers needs/desires 😉. Unfortunately for the current A.1 and B boards, it'll have to be one or the other. To change the input voltage requires internal rewiring, changing a solder jumper, and changing CPU settings. Technically it can be done in the field, but in order to access the input voltage setting, you have to unlock the inverter (void software warranty)...and to change the others, the case has to be opened--and if any of the steps are gotten wrong, the inverter response will vary from "doesn't work" to "blows up"--which is why they're all behind warranty locks. If you want 120v...maybe try to get in touch with Sean and see if he can work something out for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 It makes more sense to wait for the new board. I just thought the unit was coming by default with 120v charging. It would be better if there was a drop down menu choice for that at ordering to avoid confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, JNock said: It makes more sense to wait for the new board. I just thought the unit was coming by default with 120v charging. It would be better if there was a drop down menu choice for that at ordering to avoid confusion. Yes, we need to do that. Actually a new website system/setup is in the plans...which hopefully will improve a number of things. SquareSpace is terrible for handling "build choices", as every single possible combination has to be entered into the system as a separate product. And the square of 2 goes up VERY quickly. New board is in prototype stage right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 34 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: Yes, we need to do that. Actually a new website system/setup is in the plans...which hopefully will improve a number of things. SquareSpace is terrible for handling "build choices", as every single possible combination has to be entered into the system as a separate product. And the square of 2 goes up VERY quickly. New board is in prototype stage right now... I have an idea I’ll try, since I’m going to be off grid 90% of the time I’ll try wiring the oann 220v 6500 watt into the input side of the inverter and when it runs it’ll be supplying power to the panel and the charger charging up the batteries. The shore power plug will do nothing but power the panel independently of the inverter when being used. Any thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 3 minutes ago, JNock said: I have an idea I’ll try, since I’m going to be off grid 90% of the time I’ll try wiring the oann 220v 6500 watt into the input side of the inverter and when it runs it’ll be supplying power to the panel and the charger charging up the batteries. The shore power plug will do nothing but power the panel independently of the inverter when being used. Any thoughts ? As long as the generator's Neutral line is kept separate from any ground-neutral bonding systems--check for a potential backfeed condition if more than 2 wires come from the generator. I know, I don't like it either--but I unfortunately didn't realize the issue until after the design had been manufactured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Blind Wolf Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: As long as the generator's Neutral line is kept separate from any ground-neutral bonding systems--check for a potential backfeed condition if more than 2 wires come from the generator. I know, I don't like it either--but I unfortunately didn't realize the issue until after the design had been manufactured. That almost sounds like whats going on with my master, hmmmm. cause even witht he gs off it still does the same thing, do I just remove the N from input and leave the l1 maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 11 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: As long as the generator's Neutral line is kept separate from any ground-neutral bonding systems--check for a potential backfeed condition if more than 2 wires come from the generator. I know, I don't like it either--but I unfortunately didn't realize the issue until after the design had been manufactured. https://www.ecmweb.com/content/article/20892808/the-key-to-making-proper-neutraltocase-connections is this what you are talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 10 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said: That almost sounds like whats going on with my master, hmmmm. cause even witht he gs off it still does the same thing, do I just remove the N from input and leave the l1 maybe? No, your system setup is at 120v, so this issue does not apply. I suspect there's an external wiring mistake; need to get with you and figure that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 29 minutes ago, JNock said: https://www.ecmweb.com/content/article/20892808/the-key-to-making-proper-neutraltocase-connections is this what you are talking about? No. The current revision GS control boards were designed for only 2 AC input wires--either single phase 120 (L1 / N) or single phase 240 (L1 / L2), with the center tap for 240v generated by the inverter transformer. As such, the control board was designed to only disconnect L1...because disconnecting 1 of 2 wires stops the power flow. L2 input is directly wired to the same post as L2 output. The issue is that if a split-phase input is wired to the inverter, with L1 / L2 going to the "input" terminals, and "N" going to the output Neutral (via direct connection, shared Neutral post and/or ground-neutral bonding)...the transformer gets AC input power backfed through the L2 / N circuit, even though the L1 relay is open. The inverter now has 3 input power wires...and it's only capable of disconnecting 1. This condition will pretty well blow the inverter out. For a generator, you can simply avoid using the Neutral output terminal, and--presuming the generator chassis isn't shorted to it's Neutral terminal--and the generator chassis isn't bonded to a panel Neutral that's connected to the inverter (basically an implicit direct wire between the generator neutral and inverter neutral)...you'll be just fine. I listed the test instructions for that above: Like I mentioned, this issue is fixed in Rev. C boards, but those are currently in the prototype stage, not production. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 7 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: No. The current revision GS control boards were designed for only 2 AC input wires--either single phase 120 (L1 / N) or single phase 240 (L1 / L2), with the center tap for 240v generated by the inverter transformer. As such, the control board was designed to only disconnect L1...because disconnecting 1 of 2 wires stops the power flow. L2 input is directly wired to the same post as L2 output. The issue is that if a split-phase input is wired to the inverter, with L1 / L2 going to the "input" terminals, and "N" going to the output Neutral (via direct connection, shared Neutral post and/or ground-neutral bonding)...the transformer gets AC input power backfed through the L2 / N circuit, even though the L1 relay is open. The inverter now has 3 input power wires...and it's only capable of disconnecting 1. This condition will pretty well blow the inverter out. For a generator, you can simply avoid using the Neutral output terminal, and--presuming the generator chassis isn't shorted to it's Neutral terminal--and the generator chassis isn't bonded to a panel Neutral that's connected to the inverter (basically an implicit direct wire between the generator neutral and inverter neutral)...you'll be just fine. I listed the test instructions for that above: Like I mentioned, this issue is fixed in Rev. C boards, but those are currently in the prototype stage, not production. I just tried hooking l1 and l2 from the grid , tested for power on the output block for back feed and there was none, turned on the inverter and it beeped angrily at me saying something like invalid ac input (where it’s positioned upside down it’s hard to read). So I have absolutely no way to use this thing as a battery charger right now which is literally 50% of the reason why I need it. Sean does not handle the phone well, he would not answer at all last week. I’d rather just have the unit accept a 120v input and I’ll just plug it into the generator outlet or the grid for battery charging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 27 minutes ago, JNock said: I just tried hooking l1 and l2 from the grid , tested for power on the output block for back feed and there was none, turned on the inverter and it beeped angrily at me saying something like invalid ac input (where it’s positioned upside down it’s hard to read). So I have absolutely no way to use this thing as a battery charger right now which is literally 50% of the reason why I need it. Sean does not handle the phone well, he would not answer at all last week. I’d rather just have the unit accept a 120v input and I’ll just plug it into the generator outlet or the grid for battery charging. Pretty sure I know why...it's probably registering 270vAC or something on the input due to nonlinearity on the AC feedback circuit (my design fault again...will be fixed on the next board revisions.) You can correct this from CFG -> System -> Calibrate Readings -> AC Input line, adjust the calibration number (until the feedback reads what you measure on the AC input with your meter). Depending on the charge settings (which you should check/set before trying this!), it may switch directly into charge mode, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Personally, I'd set the System Mode to Inverter Only (CFG -> System -> Mode = "Inverter Only", not "Normal") to prevent it from switching to grid, until the AC input calibration is corrected. Then after double-checking the charge settings, set the System Mode back to Normal, and it should switch over if so configured (ATS / UPS, charge threshold triggers, voltage setpoints, etc.) Working on the manual now...hopefully will be able to get it out before too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 31 minutes ago, JNock said: where it’s positioned upside down it’s hard to read Sorry, I'm behind the game with the manual. You can flip the LCD screen (and buttons!) from the settings. CFG -> Appearance -> UpsideDn -> set to Yes. (It'll garble the screen up pretty badly--not sure why yet--but if you exit the menus, it'll redraw and correct.) Note that this will also flip the button functionalities as well (swapping Up and Enter). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said: Personally, I'd set the System Mode to Inverter Only (CFG -> System -> Mode = "Inverter Only", not "Normal") to prevent it from switching to grid, until the AC input calibration is corrected. Then after double-checking the charge settings, set the System Mode back to Normal, and it should switch over if so configured (ATS / UPS, charge threshold triggers, voltage setpoints, etc.) Working on the manual now...hopefully will be able to get it out before too long. I’ve tried everything you said and it simply doesn’t work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid Genetry Solar Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 What's the registered AC input voltage on the main page? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNock Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 It’s 247v on the meter and I can only select a calibration of 226 or 270 something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.