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dochubert

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dochubert last won the day on May 10

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  1. Hi Robert, I don't know anything about your battery , but could you open up the case, giving you more wire to work with? Or perhaps you could replace the entire wire from whatever it is connected to inside? An unspliced wire would always be preferable. If you can't do the above, crimping two wires into a copper sleeve would be a better connection than soldering, and eliminate the concern over solder quality and/or soldering safety. (Then add heatshrink)
  2. Yesterday was a strange day. It started snowing here in southwestern Idaho in the wee hours and was snowing more when I looked out at 8am than in any snowstorm we had all winter. This is May 9! Supposed to be early summer! It was above 40 degrees so snow wasn't building up in the streets, and the driveway (gravel) was slushy as it tried to melt, but there was at least 4 inches built up in the yard. I have been offgrid 24/7 since late march so was concerned about battery level since the solar panels were covered by thick snow. The battery bank was getting no charging but read 52.2v at 8am so ok for awhile (Very large battery bank). Should I switch back to grid? Decided not to yet as this freak snow hopefully would slow down or stop soon. The wife went to her volunteer work at the library so the house load was low anyway. A couple of hours later the snow was coming down just as heavy and thick as before but the temperature was climbing towards 50 so the snow was very slushy and trying to melt but couldn't do it fast enough. I went out and shoveled off the ground mount solar panels to get partial charging going to the batteries. (Got my feet wet! - slushy snow) Luckily by then the increased temp was melting new snow that hit the panels as fast as it landed so they stayed clear despite continuing snowfall. Even through snow and clouds I was getting more than 25 amps. More than the house was using so good enough for now. My wife came home about 4pm. Snow had turned to rain finally but roof panels were still mostly snow covered. My wife told me that the grid had gone done over most of the Boise area (due to snowstorm we assume as no one said) around 8am and was off until between noon and 1pm. I had no idea. Couldn't have switched back to grid if I had decided to. I probably had the only house with power for miles around all that morning. I've put a lot into my power system and once in awhile it becomes obviously worth it. Last year in May we were having a freak heat wave. This year it sometimes feels like February. Still using the wood stove in May. Still beats communist California. As a side note, I watched 2000 Mules on my snow day yesterday. Everyone should watch it. Especially those who think the 2020 election was NOT stolen.
  3. Miguel, thanks for the video. Again, I don't see how your inverter is even running with so many of the led lights off. Below are pics of the control board that was sold to me by Sean Gentry Solar as a v8 control board. Note that it says v3.8 on the board same as yours. I couldn't find anyplace on the board where it says v8. Sid, maybe you could ask Sean how to tell what version is what? There must be some significant way to tell. I have a v9 inverter but have never looked to see what it says on the control board, but it does have a v9 driver on it. (It's not available for me to check at the moment) To the best of my (admittedly limited) knowledge, only versions 7, 8, and 9 boards have individual removable component boards (with the exception of the driver board which has been removable since wayyyy back to v2xx). My favorite older (and still working!) control board is a v3.4 and only the driver board is removable. Somewhere between 3.4 and 7 powerjack changed to the multi-board model. Version 10 was a return to a simpler single board model (still with removable driver board). Miguel, changing from your current control board to v11 will require re-wiring of some connectors. If you are good at that sort of work, great! If not, well.... maybe it would be better to put your money into a new inverter instead. The multiple board control boards were, in my opinion, a big mistake on powerjack's fault. Overcomplicated, too many connectors, and miles of extra traces the already flaky signals had to run through. Powerjack was smart to finally go back to a simpler board design. Best of luck whatever you decide to do.
  4. Hi Sid, I guess I'm wrong if you say so, but I thought only versions 7, 8 and 9 had individual removable component boards on the control board. And if it was a v9 it wouldn't have a v4 driver. I've never seen a v6,5,or 4 control board so no idea about them. Bottom line is that if most of the individual component boards' led lights were out and the source board led was blinking, there's definitely at least one problem with that control board, as evidenced by low output voltage. Unless I'm wrong about that too. Please let me know. I've learned a lot from your many posts here, and always ready to learn more.
  5. Apparently you have a v7 or v8 control board. The led on your source board blinking while the leds on the other components are not on at all says something is wrong with your control board. Maybe more than one component is bad. Sean may have some of the parts if you can get in touch with him. Otherwise, powerjack only lists the v11 control board on their website; https://www.powerjackpowerinverter.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=104_106 You can email/msg Helen from their website. Sometimes she is helpful. You will likely have to do some rewiring. Connections have changed from v7 to v11. Sid can probably help you there. Wish I could give you better info. Your output voltage is not correct because your control board is not working properly. I don't advise continuing to run it as is or you risk blowing up the mosfets. A new control board should fix your inverter. Best of luck.
  6. Now that I posted all that I see that your problems are solved. Oh well....
  7. Hi Kyle, I figured out some years ago that it was much easier (and more reliable) to just go around powerjack's flaky fan controls. Even when they work they turn on the fan at unpredictable times and frequently much higher inverter temps than I wanted. (The sooner your fan turns on, the less heating your inverter endures, and therefore the longer it will last - my theory anyway!) To that end I don't interfere with powerjack's fan controls. Instead I add two of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/194245273137?hash=item2d39eba631:g:1lgAAOSwHONg8tW- You need 12v to power them. I tuck one sensor into the fins of the same heatsink that powerjack mounts its sensor, and put the second sensor on the transformer near where powerjack puts their transformer sensor. One controller now displays transformer temp and the other displays mainboard heatsink (mosfet) temp. You can then set on and off temps for your fan based on actual temp readings from both sensors. If your inverter has just one fan you just parallel the switch connections on both temp controllers and then connect that in parallel to powerjack's temp sensor on the transformer. That may not work on your inverter Kyle so you could alternatively connect to the two pins of the mosfet you shorted to make your fan run. This setup not only allows very definite fan control, it also gives you a constant temp reading of your inverter. If you need a 12v power supply, there are many to choose from. I use this one as in addition to powering the temp controllers, it can also power 2 or 3 12v fans easily (in case you want to add cooling to your inverter) https://www.ebay.com/itm/152240514307?hash=item23723de503:g:0nUAAOSw6C5hCCkK I have been using both of these exact items for years without a single one failing. Sadly the price of them has doubled since I last bought some, but still a fairly cheap and more reliable fix for your problems. Below is a pic of my temp controllers mounted in front of my inverter. Hope this might be useful to you.
  8. That's what I decided a few years ago. Put them on the shelf in the back shed and forgot them until your posts. Mine worked somewhat haphazardly when I was trying them, but even on their best days never seemed to produce the power they should have. And then they would go up and down in output under steady sun for no obvious reason. Soon tired of them and went to some Xantrex grid tie units. Those worked pretty well until the day the power company showed up. (Big Brother doesn't care much for renegade solar producers) Threatened me with all kinds of problems, so shut them down and only do off grid solar now.
  9. That is something I have never done. Sorry. For that I would have to refer you back to Sid. I can say that the lcd screen for that inverter is no different from those used in other powerjack products, so a current transformer (ct) from almost any older model powerjack inverter would probably work. I say older model because powerjack did change the lcd screens slightly at some point, and lcd's from newer models now have different connectors/pinouts, so they could also use a different ct.
  10. The pswgt1200 is one of the units I have. See pic I previously posted above. It is still likely it will not run off of batteries, and will self sestruct if you try it. The current sensor for the lcd screen has nothing to do with the unit's output current sensing and/or current limiting abilities. The unit's control circuits operate independently of the lcd screen. You can unplug the lcd screen completely and the unit will still run the same.
  11. I try to keep my lifepo4 24v bank between 26 and 28v. My 24v powerjack runs great in that range. In fact you really don't want to drop to below 24v because the sine wave starts to flatten out below 24v (using a powerjack - other inverters may vary) Only important if your loads are picky about the sinewave quality. If you are just running a pump or a waterheater it probably doesn't matter. Flatscreen tvs, microwaves or other electronics might not like a poor sinewave. Keeping your batteries between 25 and 28v should give you a good sinewave and your inverter should stay happy.
  12. Might also want to use a resistor or light bulb in series for initial connection to charge them up without the large arc and spark. (I use a 100 watt incandescent bulb when connecting up a powerjack.)
  13. First let me say I have no experience with these. If these work like normal caps, you will not want to exceed the caps voltage rating with your battery that is connected in parallel. A Lifepo4 24v bank can get to 28-29v depending on your system settings. Could be wrong but I'm assuming the cap setup is 16v to make sure it is rated higher than the battery you are connecting to. So two cap banks in series for 32v keeps it safely higher (rated) than your 28-29v batteries. The idea being, It will charge up to whatever your batteries are at and help hold that voltage. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will straighten me out.
  14. Keep in mind that powerjack inverters in 2014-15 came with 6 caps on the mainboard. My 24v 8kw from late 2014 would run my whole house and start all loads (didn't have a well pump then) but would not start my central air conditioner (understandably). Was running on 340ah of agm batteries then. Then pj started getting cheap(er) and only put 5 caps in each mainboard, then went to 4. Some came with less. Today there is no telling what you will get in a powerjack or upower box. No two are the same. So restoring the original design of 6 caps should be safe in most every case. The first purpose of those caps is to stop the 24khz ripple, but stabilizing the dc voltage under varying demand is also an important function of them.
  15. Any additional cables in parallel to what you have reduces the potential voltage drop caused by high demand. Any way you can accomplish that will improve things.
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