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dickson

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Everything posted by dickson

  1. Here is a simple circuit that closes a relay when a battery bank voltage is low and opens it when the voltage is high This circuit is similar to what I use to charge 12 separate banks of 16s lithium ion battery to open at 65 v and stop charging . Thank you .
  2. And the idea is to use all four of them in parallel. If a string shorts, they can put out between 300 and 400 Amps per cell. That means between 900 and 1200 Amps per battery. I intend to solve that problem by fusing them for no more than 100 Amps each battery and then the buss itself at 300 Amps. Depending on what I find, I might change them to 7S4P units times 3 Yes for a 24v inverter you need to fuse and circuit breaker each of the 4 banks of battery and the bus bar is fuse for 300 amps . I have a 48v inverter and do the same for 12 banks of battery in parallel 16s12p with 12 fuse and 12 circuit breaker and 12 voltage regulator and 12 separate charging circiut with 65v MSB solar chatger during day or 10 67v e-bike charger at night and my bus bar is fuse 400 amps . Six feet of pure copper bar 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch square is 700 dollars and is 3 times larger than three 1/2 inch copper bar bolted together . Yes three 3/0 welding cable in a short 2 inch copper pipe will be cheaper .
  3. After just thinking about it, I think I cam up with a better way to solve the high voltage issue, is by s;itting the battery banks each set of banks can handle 4400 amps each, so each inverter would get its own set of batts, what I need to do is get a DC to DC 24v to keep them balance, so if one bank gets power it can charge the other at the same level and back and forth. Yes if you sit each separate battery banks to handle 4400 watts then 4/0 welding cable will work . I have 12 separate battery banks using 4/0 welding cable that each bank can handle 10 thousand watts at 60 volts . I go back and forth by charging one bank and using one bank with the inverter and one bank waiting in reserve already fully charge if more power is needed to connect to the inverter . I use voltage regulator or BMS on a few battery bank and MSB charge controller instead of DC to DC converter or balancers to keep the battery from overcharge and causing a fire . Sid balancers will work but require many wires like a BMS .
  4. For your information the copper bar size to handle 600 amps is 1 and 1/2 inch square and cost 700 dollars for 6 feet . How many feet do you think you need ? Has to go with 48v or 60v inverter .
  5. I've though about running each battery bank to a bus bar, but there are no bus bar big enough to handle 600 amps at 24v, and I would need one that can handle that You are right about no bus bar to handle 600 amps . The wire size needed will be 1 and 1/8 inch copper or 700 kcmil . The cost of wire and breaker and fuse and switch for 24 volt and 12 volt inverter will cost more than one GS inverter . Has to go with 48 v or 60 v inverter . Thank you for your information as I did not know your situation before and why the fire and the melted bus bar .
  6. the lythuim would be keeping the AGM batts charged up since AGM batts I have can handle the amps output and not freaking over heat like the stupid lythuims with all the hundread wires to make it work I like to see a picture of your hundred wires to the lithium batteries . My 60v BMW car lithium ion battery only need 2 wires with a switch a 400amp fuse a 65 v regulator with a DC choke connected to the PJ inverter and using for 2 years . Off grid garage on youtube has hundred wires and all kind of problem charging his lithium phosphate iron battery . I also has 4 AGM battery connected is series for 48v and is using the same BMW lithium ion battery to charge to 14.4 v each with voltage regulator .
  7. Please give me diagram on how to connect my u-power 15000 inverter. I don’t have an manual so I would like to know where to connect my solar panels Solar panels are connected to a solar controller and battery and not directly to the U-Power . See MSB on this forum . MSB website has a diagram .
  8. Will an auto-transformer be needed in a supportable solution, for simultaneous 120v split phase & 240v on a GS 6K, to tie the neutral of a split-phase? (I am still trying to be sure on this point... some other vendor solutions require this Do not use an autotransformer because it max out at 5000 watts . See youtube review on Gowatt using autotransformer to make 240vac and surge exceed 5000 watt and the neutral will be disconnected and the ground wire will become the neutral wire and a person can be electrocuted or the house catch on fire . Gowatt is HF inverter and not true split-phase .
  9. It’s the AS9. I need to tape the tags to the case so I don’t lose them Thank you for the information . People in this forum has PS 15kw inverter with ASL6.5 with 36vac and ASL6.5 with 32vac also . Now that summer is over my ASL9.0 with 36vac can run with 3 Delta fans and heat pump OFF for 16 hours no problem .
  10. Well once I do get everything ready, I’ll be changing out the inverter to y’all’s for sure The latest youtube video show the 12kw GS will not be available for a while . Do you have the ASL9 transformer in your 15kw PS inverter ? My ASL9 in my 15kw PS overheat and shutdown after 90 minutes running a 4ton heat pump no matter if I use 7 Delta fans. There is something wrong with the core of the ASL9 transformer design from day one by PS engineer . Thank you for your pictures of the GS wifi board and 15kw PS .
  11. it will be impossible to get 3,640A to flow @ 12v. Notice that I didn't say that any work was being done with this 3,640A. The inverter resistance will have to be far less than 3.2 milliohms in order to get any power to flow on the output side...otherwise the entire 40kw gets burned up in wire losses in the inverter, and no significant power is produced. Too dangerous for fire and cost of wires will probably be more than a 12kw GS inverter . I see on youtube one FET is 900 dollars and need many FETs for an inverter that one person try and fail and gave up after losing thousands of dollars . I am running 60v on a PJ inverter just to run a heat pump 129 LRA for little over an hour no matter how many time I try to run longer but never longer than 90 minutes . The transformer just overheat and shut down .
  12. I don’t wanna hook that up to my new lithium ion I try hooking up straight to the lithium ion battery one time and it is too dangerous to overcharge and have to hook lithium ion battery to a charge controller no matter what the cost . Overcharge lithium ion to 400 degree F and have thermal runaway and fire .
  13. Or maybe I’ll shell out some money for a mid nite classic 150 The price is equal to a GS inverrter or I can get 7 MSB controllers 60 amps . I use 2 MSB 60 amp to charge lithium ion battery at 16s 66 volts and now only use the 67 volt e-bike charger at night . I think the MSB controller is the best for the price . Thank you for the information .
  14. previously on a different inverter i used a resister to pre-charge the capacitors but have never done that with this inverter (the 24-volt 15,000 watt PSW LF SP PowerJack 3 piece SS inverter). I always precharge before connecting the positive cable from battery bank . One time I forget and touch a 8kwh battery bank positive cable to the inverter pos terminal and sparks fly and sound like a shotgun went off and I thought I blew up the inverter . Good to see you have everything working . I do not like to see this forum shutdown so I may donate 50 dollars to keep it going till dec . Sid give a lot of useful information.
  15. Was this because the inverter had already been hooked up to another 24-volt lifepo4 battery (for testing) and the capacitors were already charged up? Are you trying to parallel the 1088ah battery to the 24 v lifepo4 battery already connected ? Need to check the voltage of the 2 different battery bank before parallel the connection . The voltage of 2 different battery bank should be the same within 2 volts . There will be a huge spark becuase the 2 bank of battery will equalize in millisecond . If the capacitor is discharge when all cables is disconnected then do you know how to pre-charge the capacitor to avoid a huge spark when the inverter switch turn on to charge the capacitor in millisecond ? Sorry to ask a question to your question .
  16. I watch Sean youtube about how he measure standby ampage This is the youtube by Sean .
  17. 1.434A @ 61v on the battery is pretty high for no load.......ideal should be under 1A. I watch Sean youtube about how he measure standby ampage . The PJ 6000 watt inverter measure 0.10 amp which is 1.35 watt with the switch OFF . My mistake was measuring 1.6amps with the switch ON and the fan ON . Now measure again with switch off and fan off is 0.42amp at 57vDC is now the same as last year 24 watts . Thank you Sid for your patience to answer my stupid mistake . The choke by PJ on ebay probably do nothing but cost over 100 dollars .
  18. If your system regularly runs >60v, you'll probably benefit quite a bit from a second low-side choke on the transformer. Yes I added a second choke on the other primary of the transformer from what you tested on this forum eariler . The best improvment was removing one complete main board . Blow up 48 FETs is too expensive . 24 FETs on ebay is now over 100 dollars and 30 dollars for LF driver .
  19. 1.434A @ 61v on the battery is pretty high for no load.......ideal should be under 1A. I was using the wrong meter before amd now measure the positive cable again with Uni-T UT210E and reading 1.6amps at 57 vDC . This is still high so the choke on the positive cable outside the inverter probably not lower the standby current and maybe increase the current . The choke inside the box on the primary of transformer do lower the standby current . Thank you .
  20. I didn't say that standby was 0.11 watts; I was referring to the difference between your measurements of the output load Surprise a different meter make a big difference . Thank you. DC positive cable 1.434amps at 61.4 v and 0.098 AC amp at 107vac . see picture .
  21. I didn't say that standby was 0.11 watts; I was referring to the difference between your measurements of the output load ("10.49 watts" on L2) and your measurement of the input load ("10.60 watt" on the battery) is mathematically 10.6 - 10.49 = 0.11 watts loss I am confuse about the measurement of output and DC input . I am using the inverter now so I will try to take picture of what I measure tomorrow morning . Thank you .
  22. that was the huge choke i was asking about that PowerJack is selling on eBay I was surprise to see the 490uHenry ferrite choke install on the output AC 120v side . A lightning surge suppressor do have a ferrite choke and a bypass capacitor for the AC 240 v for house surge protection I have one on my house main service 240v to protect the heat pump . A 10uf capacitor on L2 will help start and run inductive load like washing machine and dishwasher . The 490u Henry choke on the DC cable will make a LC circuit for back EMF . Your heat gun cause a huge surge when shut off never happen to me . The Sol Art inverter and Growatt inverter shut down also when there a huge resistive load and willl also shut down when a huge inductive load from a dishwasher and washing machine . This is from youtube review and said the 2 above inverters cause a very dangerous condition because the neutal line is shut off at the same time of the surge but the inverter still output 120v and a person can be electrocuted because the ground is now 120v . That is so confusing that they do not have a solution yet . Need a EE degree to explain all this . This subject is going down a rabbit hole .
  23. There is no way that the switching losses + control board power requirements of your inverter are 0.11W. A whole "8kw" 24v PJ inverter runs 80mA @ 24v with just the electronics running (transformer off). The 4/0 positive cable is 11.0 watts on standby not 0.11 watt . The L2 output is 11.0 watts on the AC side awg 6 cable . This is the new measurement this morning . Last year was 24.0 watts .
  24. I have to measure with a different meter as reading is too low This morning I measure the pos DC cable is 0.171 amp x 62v equal 10.60 watt . I measure L2 is 0.099 amp x 106v equal 10.49 watt .
  25. I don't think your meter is reading DC amperage. I have to measure with a different meter as reading is too low . Thank you . A year ago it was 0.4 a x 60v equal 24 watts .
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