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TheButcher last won the day on November 23

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  1. Comes down to acceptable levels of AC load induced ripple and droop under abrupt load increases. Lots of ripple is not good for the longevity of the battery (LA, li, what ever type you like). Yes, they might be using capacitors with high capacitance and better ripple current ratings to counter the lower number... but I seriously doubt that 🙂 Given that PJ is mostly a work of fiction anyway I doubt that any of this this is given even 1ms of consideration.
  2. I've been using those metal case bucks for a while too and so far none of them has failed but I still have a crowbar on the output just in case. Avoid the black plastic rectangular ones, pretty much guaranteed to fail, even if you only ever put a light load on them, and kill what ever is connected to them.
  3. I'll let you in on a secret, well not really a secret. The Chinese 'hybrid' probably just has a standalone bare solar charger in box. If you want an example you can find 'unboxing' videos on youtube where people unpack and take the lid off Chinese LF hybrid inverters. Pay attention and you might just see a separate solar charger in there. So the answer to how do you add a solar charger to the GS inverter? Buy any solar charger you like and wire it to your battery bank as you normally would (ie, follow the instructions).
  4. Not sure if that's a deliberate effect or just a side effect of the sine being crushed flat under 'high' (high for PJ 😉 ) load due to the 'voltage' of the transformer not being a good match with the battery voltage. Sid could probably comment about it. Some HF inverters just produce horrible waveforms, like Sids' example posted elsewhere while others produce a few cycles of distorted sine while they let the HVDC drop to reduce the AC peak voltage and thereby limit current but once the initial distorted cycle or two is past the waveform is pretty sinusoidal. Once the inverter sees current is more agreeable the HVDC is allowed to slowly rise back to normal (~170VDC for 120VAC, 340VDC for 240VAC) with the sine climbing back to normal instep with that.
  5. Whoops, I see this is a big transformer based inverter, not a HF inverter so the below doesn't apply. That is all only for HF inverters, but it's still a good read so I'll leave it for posterity. A low wattage 120 (or 240v, as appropriate) incandescent (the hot wire type) light bulb between the earth terminal and one of the AC output wires of the inverter is one way to test if it is safe to tie one of the AC output wires to earth and declare it neutral. If the bulb lights even dimly, it is not safe to tie that AC output wire to earth. With the bulb in place measure the AC voltage across the bulb. It should be close to 0 volts. If not, it is not safe to tie that AC output wire to earth. Repeat the tests with the other AC output wire. You can not measure the voltage without the bulb or a decent load in place as there definitely will be leakage voltage between the chassis earth and the AC output wires giving an approx 1/2 AC voltage reading. Be especially wary of 120VAC single phase inverters that have a terminal strip and have 4 terminals. They are almost certainly 120/240 split designs that are simply being run at low output voltage. What you have on the terminal block is chassis earth, L1, 'neutral', L2. The neutral terminal is at half line voltage (60VAC) with respect to the chassis earth terminal. 'Reliable Electric' had a few models like that. Taking L1 or L2 to earth will blow transistors at power up of the inverter. I have seen this style of inverter being sold as '240V' single phase into Europe / Australia / NZ etc, ie '240V' only countries. The same caution applies there. Connecting either of the AC output wires to earth to establish neutral = bang. These particular designs aren't intrinsically unsafe. A correctly installed RCD will still trip as current can flow from L1/L2 to the physical earth (ie a return path other than L1/L2) if you have tied the earth terminal to ... the earth. Ultimately these things are not supposed to be wired up to premises wiring, even the ones that have terminal strips, but a technically competent person can ensure things are safe and don't go bang.
  6. A 1000% step up from the MSB would be the MPP Solar range of all-in-ones. Yes, they cost more and yes they will have trouble starting those water pumps but they do explain that in the documents and recommend a unit with 3 to 7 times the run rating of the motor to cope with the start up and the same thing explained by Sid above will apply if you exceed the instantaneous power rating of the inverter. It's the nature of these things. Once you exceed the power rating the AC waveform goes to hell and the inverter also considerably drops the peak voltage of the AC to stop itself from blowing up. That will likely cause AC line driven motors that are under load to stall.
  7. Lithium cells are a bit bonkers really. Quality 18650s can have sustained discharge rates of 30A and short circuit capabilities round 200A.
  8. I guess the 600V could be used to restart your wallet's heart after it sees how much that thing costs 😆 I use Victron as my primary charger and like your experience with the Morningstar, these things just work. 24 x 7 no issues. Quite nice these days. I've pulled 3.07MWh through it to date. Only disappointment is there doesn't seem to be a self-destruct facility like your Morningstar has. I guess every silver lining comes with a cloud. 😉
  9. Having just had a davidpoz YT clip pop up <foilhat>yeah, sure, google doesn't follow you around at all, it's entirely co-incidental that it threw that up after I did some searches on the topic in the larger internet .... </foilhat>, and I wonder if he used an autotransformer across the solark's 240V output would he get a better experience than coming-a-gutsa when his wife exceeds the 120v rating of the unit. He'd still need to pay attention to load distribution of course but it would be more forgiving.
  10. I looked into that for someone a couple of years ago and there was pretty much nothing available. Well at least nothing that wouldn't require life support for you wallet. Even just getting a standalone PV HV charger without fault protection is hard. All-in-one inverters go up to about 450VDC and I've seen grid tie go up to around 800VDC (mppt range, Vmax is around 950VDC) but standalones... just doesn't seem to be something the market is interested in producing.
  11. Sol-Ark-12k-P. OK. Someone that doesn't actually read the specs might just go, derp, 'I willz buy it coz it does 12kW as it has 12k in the model number!!' but if they bothered to check the product material it clearly says the inverter is rated at 9kw at 240V, 4.8kW at 120V and while in bypass mode the unit can carry 12kw at 240V and 6kw at 120V through from the grid to the output. I'm all for good quality products but equally it doesn't hurt to read the manual etc before slapping down 'thousands' on something.
  12. Yeah, true, but distilling it down, doesn't meet the specs; didn't have the functionality stated; went bang. All good enough reasons individually to not buy one, IMO.
  13. Worthwhile reading ... https://diysolarforum.com/threads/feedback-on-make-sky-blue-hybrid-inverter-requested-all-in-one.7400/
  14. To be honest seeing someone considering a MakeSkyBlue inverter fills me with all kinds of trepidation. Whilst their solar battery chargers do work the firmware is shall we say a little 'quirky' and lacks some fairly important items for a battery charger. For the record I do own 3 of their chargers so I'm not talking out my ... hat ... on this. If the firmware in their inverter follows the same path in terms of features and quality it's not going to be a smooth ride. The quality of the program in the device these days really does matter as a lot of what the inverter does, AC waveform, protection systems etc, is all done by/under control of it. This doesn't even consider the hardware itself, which given MakeSkyBlue, isn't going to be particularly high either. Do your homework on this before clicking purchase.
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