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kuhrd

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Everything posted by kuhrd

  1. Yeah I am patiently waiting. I would rather wait longer for it to be done right then to have it rushed and run into any issues. Take all the time you 2 need to get it right. The 6K is working just fine for the majority of my needs until I can get a much larger battery bank anyway. Keep up the great work!
  2. I just passed 1 MWh a couple days ago and going strong. So far 6030 hours and counting running pretty much the whole house short of the water heater, range and clothes dryer.
  3. Nice neat setup for them so far, I will be interested in seeing how well they work for you on such a large bank. I'll be happy if I can get my current bank up to 30Kwh within the next year.
  4. I just wish Power Jack would stop saying 8000W as if it is a wattage when in reality it is just a model number and the unit could never do 8000 watts even with 1-5 seconds of surge. I realize you have the potential of a sucker born every minute but people are easily confused into thinking 8000w means 8000 watts when I then have to explain to them that they will be lucky to pull 2500-3000 watts continuous out of the unit with maybe a 4500-6000 watt surge depending on how it was built in the factory that day.
  5. I have all of my controllers, battery bank, and the inverter in the utility room in the basement. Ambient temp in the summer is around 60-70 with temps outside from 70F to 95F. In the winter it maintains a cool 55-65 if temps of 0 to -30F outside depending on the day. I am waiting to see how the basement warms up this winter since I am working to add more solar before the snow flies so I expect the inverter and charge controllers to be under a much larger load this winter which will likely bring up the temps a bit more.
  6. Welcome to the forum. Nice setup you have coming together so far.
  7. You may want to add a bit more detail to your question so that someone can more easily help answer your question. What size and version of inverter are you asking about? I would assume this is a split phase inverter (L1-110v-N-110V-L2) and you are asking how to adjust the output voltage? Once you clarify what inverter you have, I am sure someone will be able to answer your question. If you are asking how to get both L1-N and N-L2 to both be the same voltage on a power jack inverter, that answer is more difficult as it may require adding turns to whatever transformer leg is lowest and testing with a variac until both sides are equal.
  8. A single GS-6K inverter starts my 120v well pump, sump pump, 15CuFt fridge and my 8000BTU Window AC unit without an issue. If you are concerned about a load like an AC unit check to see what the LRA (locked rotor amps) on the unit is as that will kind of give you a rough idea what it needs for surge. Most electric motors will require somewhere between 2 and 7 times the rated running current to start under load. I have my inverter running pretty much my entire house except for the water heater and range at this point. Sid and Sean are still testing things a bit with the 6k to see where the max surge limit is so they don't have any hard numbers but Sean was able to start his smaller 3 Ton, 13 SEER Air Conditioner with a single GS-6K inverter running as master when the slave inverter errored out during testing. His smaller AC unit uses 1.2A for the fan and has a rated load amps of 14.1 and locked rotor amps of 77 for the compressor which should give you a rough idea what it can do assuming of course you have a big enough battery bank to supply it. You won't really gain anything by going to the rev C control board. All that changes is the voltage reading won't be affected by changes in temperature like it is on Rev A and Rev B boards (only moves by a few volts) and the AC input relay on the Rev C control board switches both L1 and L2 rather than just L1. This is important for preventing back feeding in neutral ground bonded systems. The best way around this if you have grid power that you are planning to connect to the input of the inverter for charging is to use a second panel and set it up for critical loads. You can then wire the second panel as a sub panel for the inverter, keeping the neutrals and grounds separate (not bonded) which eliminates the chance of a back feed issue. All of the GS control boards support the same firmware at this time so they all can run 1.1r3 and will support 1.1r4 when Sid is finished tweaking, testing and ready to release it.
  9. Please don't lock out the fan settings just because a few people don't know what they are doing. Instead maybe setup the inverter so that the curve can be tuned but have a restore to factory fan curve option and possibly code in a fan settings failsafe where a locked inverter (or unlocked for that matter) will automatically detect a critical temp and crank all the fans to 100% and ignore the custom settings in that instance until it either cools back down to a safe temperature or reaches the critical overheat temperature and triggers a shutdown. If the inverter needs to save itself like this it could advise the customer to restore the fan profile to factory settings. Another option may be having a handful of fan curves that are based on ambient temperature, inverter load, and transformer temperature. Having a quiet mode, normal mode, Proactive cooling (as you described above) and possibly a 100°F+ setting where the inverter sees the high ambient temp and more aggressively cranks the fans early. All that being said I haven't adjusted the fan settings much because I have the inverter in the basement where the sound is pretty well dampened. I may try out the proactive cooling but so far it hasn't been an issue as of yet where I currently have mine installed.
  10. Those are probably standard 5x20mm fuses. If you have a ruler that has mm on it just check that way and see if it comes out right. then you know what to buy. I can get most sizes of fuse locally but you may have to order online. I would recommend replacing the glass fuses with ceramic fuses to reduce the chance of rupture but other than that either type should get the job done.
  11. I assume you are talking about this video => Since he was right at the continuous limit of the inverter pulling right around 6000 watts in the video; It had very little overhead left to handle the surge of the well pump. Or any other large inductive load at that point. I am not privy to the what the max surge is on a stock locked GS6000 inverter but I would guess the max surge is probably something close to 12-15KW for a fraction of a second and maybe 8000-12000 for a few seconds (Sid would likely be able to tell you more). I think the surge capability is something that Sean and Sid are still trying to get a gauge on as it is hard to measure inrush and starting surge since most available hand held test equipment is simply not fast enough. LRA ratings are the absolute maximum current that the motor can draw at full terminal voltage with a stalled rotor so the starting surge will be somewhere in between the LRA rating and the normal operating load. A square wave output won't destroy induction motors (at least right away) but it will cause them to run hotter, pull more amps and de-rate their max output. If the motor was already barely able to keep itself cool. then running it on a square wave or poorly designed modified sine inverter will eventually cause it to overheat and fail. An old trick was to use a 1:1 isolation transformer between square wave or modified sine inverter to knock the edges off the wave form cleaning it up some but again you are just moving the heat and losses around but it would protect the motors.
  12. The flicker is nowhere near what it was in 1.1r2 but it is still present at times when inductive loads are running like the well pump and AC but it is almost not noticeable at this point. The flicker could even be caused by the load that is running and the regulation setting in 1.1r2 was just making it very noticeable. It's most noticeable in the few LED lights that don't have a capacitor but is also visible in incandescent bulbs like the one in the fridge. But like I said the flicker is hardly noticeable and only when the large loads are running. The biggest reasons I wanted to move to the Rev. C board was the voltage fluctuations with the temperature and the newer input relay since it switches both L1 and L2. As far as the transformer modification, I guess I can wait for the warranty period to expire and then take a crack at disconnecting the transformer and testing it with a variac to get the turns right. It wouldn't be the first time I have made adjustments to the number of turns on a transformer. The other, less sophisticated option is to go to 17S on the pack so the battery will never go below 51.7 in normal operation but I would need a different BMS at that point. I plan to keep the 6K installed as a backup (maybe even a slave to the 12K) when the 12K is available. I will definitely need to add 20-30KWh of battery storage before that happens heh.
  13. That seems to make a lot more sense and fit with what I have been seeing. Would this explain why the inverter seemed to struggle to start loads on occasion (starting the well pump) when the bank was low like <50Vdc and the flicker in the lights with the AC running? Since a squareish wave is going to a bit harder to drive motors? I can set the ATS setting at 52v (which would be around 30% SoC for the bank) and see if the error completely goes away when I let the bank run down and see if it transfers successfully. This would maybe help verify if that fixes the issue. If the transformer is slightly out of spec, is it possible to code in that setting change in the firmware specific to my my inverter's serial number so it doesn't affect your other inverters that are in the field presuming they are all running with the correct transformer specification? I can obviously live with it as it is since it seems to be working properly other than that annoying issue. Whenever the Rev C boards are available, and everything looks good or even when the 12 K is available (as I plan to purchase one eventually) is it possible to send the inverter back and have the transformer issue checked and corrected if possible and while it's in the shop pay to have the new Rev C board fitted? I live in northern Wisconsin near Antigo so I might even be able to make a trip over to lower Michigan to save the shipping costs (and potential damage) if Sean is ok with it when that time comes. Then if the 12K units are available at that time I would have one prepaid and waiting to be picked up at the same time. I realize that this might be a year off depending on how things go.
  14. Of the around 20 or so times it has given me this error several of them for sure happened as soon as the inverter tried to switch over since it happened when I was watching it do so pretty much as soon as the relay clicked. Each time I upgrade the firmware I check the calibration against 3 different DMMs just to be sure since things get expensive fast if its too far out. After the very first firmware update I did from the initial shipped firmware 1.0r22 to 1.1r1 and it lost a bunch of the calibration settings, I make it a habit to check after every update before flipping the breaker back on. I can check it again but I did check it a week ago and the voltage was reading about 241-242 I have found that I have to wait with calibration until the inverter is warmed back up since the displayed voltage won't read accurate till everything is at a constant temp but the actual output voltage as measured with a DMM doesn't change much. The AC Line voltage from the grid is 246-248 every time I have ever tested it and I try to keep the inverter output close to that but usually a bit under. I haven't had to adjust the AC output calibration since I upgraded to 1.1r1 as the actual measured output has stayed within 240-246v range this whole time. What is really weird is that I was able to turn the AC input on and power up the inverter without it erroring in these tests but 2 nights ago it would shutdown with the error as soon as it booted up and said it was In-Sync on the screen and the relay would click (I assume it was trying to transfer and charge the battery bank). The only difference between these two times was that the battery voltage was low enough <51.6v that the inverter attempted to transfer to the grid so it could charge the batteries 2 nights ago and charging was set to Auto. Last night the bank was at 52.3 which is above the ATS voltage setting with charging set to manual and it never tried to transfer as soon as it synced up to grid frequency after it was powered on. Could it be that it is transferring to fast and it doesn't have enough time to get a stable reading? That wouldn't explain why the error is happening when the bank goes low 51v when the inverter has been running all week just fine unless it is something to do with charging kicking in to fast after the transfer happens in this case as well.
  15. Oh almost forgot, it was 1300 watts because a milkhouse heater on low was the only portable load I had handy over 200 watts I could find.
  16. So tonight it was able to successfully transfer to AC Pass-Thru and and I was also able to manually trigger it to charge without it getting mad with the Xformer Voltage Error so I took some pictures so you have a bit more info about what is going on. Battery bank was at 52.3 when I manually set it to AC Priority and also when I manually triggered it to start charging. I organized them into folders to make it easy to see what I was doing for each set of images. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Dnc4UhFIO34Mi_-axaoedpBKQF18Cb2Z?usp=sharing Hopefully that helps provide some insight as to what is going on.
  17. I can wait for 1.1r4. As far as I recall ATS and charging at least manually was working ok in 1.1r1 and I am pretty sure I started to see this error starting with 1.1r2 but I don't remember for sure. I don't think I tested the ATS or charging with 1.1r3 right after the update. As it is right now it seems like the second it tries to transfer and go into charge mode it throws the error.
  18. Ok so I had some time to play around with this and I now know a bit more about what is happening. So as early as 1.1r1 (IIRC) I had the GS inverter connected to grid and it seems to sync fine and even at least with the last revision 1.1r2 would allow me to charge or set to ATS and have it transfer successfully at least manually. I had the inverter go into the same transformer voltage error when it tried to transfer and start charging the batteries at 50V on the bank. Every time it tries to start charging the bank it gives this error it seems even though in the past I was able to manually transfer without issue and then manually charge the battery bank. Not sure what has changed other than firmware since that time and I also would get the same error every once in a while with 1.1r2. It seems I can pretty much reproduce the error at will. The good news is that I can just set the inverter to inverter mode only or just keep the AC input breaker off and the inverter keeps running without issue. So it's not that the inverter was tripping on overload, its that the battery bank would dip down enough when starting the well pump that it would trigger the inverter to transfer and try to start charging the bank which was causing the error.
  19. Saw this and laughed. Thanks for getting the preliminary manual out BTW.
  20. 120A would last forever though, even if it is large and expensive. At least it won't be like the crap 30A automotive relay that Inergy put in the Apex portable power station that melts because it can't handle switching the 30A max charge rate that they have on the internal solar charge controller. That being said I replaced it for a buddy and even the 50A automotive relay eventually pitted the contacts and melted after several months of service because they weren't designed for the task and have nowhere to dissipate the heat other than the air moving through the chassis.
  21. I haven't had the time to mess with it lately but I think I can reproduce it. I am in the middle of helping my brother's family move homes and I just get back from a short 3 day vacation so the inverter has only been powering the minimum stuff lately. I will try to get some more pictures or maybe even some video if it happens again.
  22. kuhrd

    Hello !

    Welcome to the forum Math.
  23. You should be able to edit your post but I am not sure how the forum treats quotes after the text is edited. I would assume Sid would have to remove it as well. Either way, you also have the ability to send a private message at the top from the little message icon. Just trying to help as scam calls are out of hand as it is these days.
  24. I would recommend removal of the phone number from all posts if possible now that everything is sorted.
  25. The challenge becomes trying to use any chart including the NEC one for something like power delivery in a DC system at short distances since the chart doesn't include cable with higher temp ratings like 105C, 125C and 200C rated cable(or at least I can't find an NEC chart with the higher temp rated cable in my code book). How you install or use the cable also makes a big difference on its allowed ampacity. Its always a good idea to go over board on the cable in stationary battery systems to limit voltage drop. I know from personal experience winding my own transformers that I can get around 200 amps through 12AWG wire for about 5-10 seconds before it begins acting more as a slow blow fuse. The 2/0 cable you are using should be more than sufficient.
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