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Sid Genetry Solar

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Sid Genetry Solar last won the day on September 21

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  1. Hmm. Sounding a bit like the thermal switch for the fan control isn't working? Maybe you can trace the wires and try to locate the thermal switch (it looks an awful lot like the MOSFETs actually, but it's a bimetallic thermal switch). Often covered in black goop, on top of the transformer.
  2. PJ had a rash of bad capacitors within the past year...caps that were poor quality and tended to fail easily. As far as I know those caps can be identified by their black label. PJ switched back to the beige/purplish caps after that, which haven't been problematic. Which color caps do your inverter have? What is the standby draw on your inverter now?
  3. Have a lot going on, but hopefully I'll soon be able to get back to the firmware and get an update with battery charging enabled + misc bugfixes. Yes, the WiFi board gives a LOT more info into the inverter's internal workings, that was the point 😉.
  4. Ha, took me a moment to recognize a WiFi board... ...I can be rather slow sometimes. How's the WiFi board doing for you?
  5. Any glue that isn't acidic / chemically unstable should be fine--you don't want it to eat the enamel off of the transformer wire. (Pretty sure Sean uses regular hot glue.) A favorite trick of mine is to try to slide it under some windings.
  6. Welcome, and thanks for the overview. Didn't know that wind turbine propeller could be used as a coat rack, haha 😉... How's the Leaf pack stacking up? Any BMS/balancing system?
  7. So I don't think these FETs will be dissipating much heat. They are simply on/off switches, and a large number are used to try to prevent them from "fusing on" with a short circuit / high surge load. I would expect any heat generated to be extremely minimal. And then of course there's the 0.03A (max) balance things...little resistors with transistors to turn 'em on. Next to useless on the large battery banks often used in off-grid systems.......
  8. Have you checked the "battery voltage" adjustment knob--that is, if your inverter has it? I wouldn't be surprised if the battery voltage protection is completely disabled. Does the inverter beep several times at startup?
  9. As long as the ferrite combinations are balanced between the 2 mainboards, you should be just fine. Definitely would not recommend imbalanced ferrites between the 2 mainboards. Both mainboards are driven with exactly the same drive signals (as in, same connection points, not separate outputs). The stock PJ ferrite is pretty good...IF it has 2 full turns of wire around it. In my experimentation, it's roughly the same as an E-core (have experimented with those as well). The ferrite is basically absorbing/filtering the 24KHz SPWM carrier from the FETs. The main transformer will have an extremely low impedance at 24KHz, causing extremely high no-load current due to the transformer deadshorting the FETs. The more of this "carrier" that is absorbed by the ferrites, the better the no-load current will be. The lower limit of the no-load current is the main transformer's magnetizing current + switching losses / control circuitry power requirements; it is not possible to reduce the no-load current farther than this with ferrites.
  10. Oh my, that's a bit more of a test than I expected ;-). Having to find a different PCB supplier, as JLCPCB basically told me that they don't care to keep parts in stock anymore. I really don't care for SMT soldering that much, so I'll have to use someone else. Considering a different PCB supplier (costs more, of course!) that offers conformal coating. That might be highly important for reliability in a humid environment.
  11. Sorry for the lack of communication. There was an unexpected manufacturing change in the last batch of inverters...considerably increasing the size of the transformer hold-down bracket. That by itself wasn't a bad idea EXCEPT that it considerably reduces the airflow across the transformer. Which...reduces the maximum continuous load--to less than 6kw. (Sean ran load tests several days ago.) The manufacturer will be express shipping us a full set of replacement transformer brackets as per the original specification. I'd expect a video about this sometime soon. Split-phase is standard; Rev. C boards I alas have still not ordered. Found that my preferred PCB company has serious problems with maintaining SMT assembly item stocks...so I will have to find a different company. Been busy working on a big project for a friend, so unfortunately the GS stuff has been slipping a bit on my plate...
  12. Was watching it on the on-screen inverter LCD 'scope during tests...it starts to cut the peak of the AC output wave to zero. So yes, it causes severe distortion to the AC output wave. On the battery current 'scope channel, it literally flat-lines the battery current exactly at the threshold. Really kinda funny to see. HOWEVER...keep in mind that the current limit should ideally be set somewhere below the maximum current of the FETs--it is not intended to be a regular part of inverter operation. The purpose of the current limit is to protect the FETs from exploding. Most conservative maximum current of the FETs in the 12kw should be (108A * 11 = 1,188A * 55v) = 65,340W...far beyond the power required to start that big A/C unit. (Obviously, for 24v, that'd be half that, i.e. 32,670W FET max.) For now, we just have the current limit set lower to guarantee that the FETs are safe; after determining actual limits, it can be set higher.
  13. Need a lot more information. Not sure what's being discussed; if the item in question produced a lot of smoke / fire, it's probably best to replace the entire unit.
  14. Ah, OK, finally got the video to download... ...I meant under load! Connect the light bulb to the transformer terminals WITH IT CONNECTED to the AC / output board as well. Then load the inverter down until it starts doing that "warping" sound--and see what the light bulb is doing. Passing no-load tests is easy, that's like idling a car. Putting some load on it is like loading the engine down--that's when you find that the crankshaft bolts weren't tight enough. If the transformer isn't connected to the AC / output board, it's impossible for the CPU to regulate the output voltage in the first place. Perhaps a better test would be to connect a 120v light bulb directly to an output phase of the transformer (i.e. 120v, not 240v!)...and another one at the output terminals of the inverter where your load is connected. If they don't match, then there's a hardware problem on the AC / output board. (The pig's nest of wiring on it haphazardly connected to the board strongly suggests that to be the issue.) If they DO match, but they aren't brightest when the transformer is at the loudest "buzz" part of the warp, then there's a transformer issue. P.S. You're a lot closer to me than to Sean. But Sean has more repair parts than I do 😉
  15. I need to look at your system via video call sometime, it'll probably be pretty obvious what's going on ;-). I would not expect an open neutral to cause a problem--not with 120v single-phase inverters that yours are set up for.
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