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Sid Genetry Solar

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  1. I would suggest using an external meter to measure the actual power flow. There's a chance the MSB might be mis-reporting the actual current. You can sorta guesstimate the "maximum power point" voltage--in my experience, the MPPTs usually either run at close to the actual power point, or they yank the panels all the way down to battery voltage.
  2. Ah, but here's something to keep in mind: I am assuming your panels are on a fixed array. The sun is significantly lower in the sky in the wintertime than in the summer (at least in the Northern hemisphere). From a direct point-of-view, the panels are getting LESS actual sun in the wintertime due to the LESS-than-perpendicular angle. This will result in reduced power output. At least from my guesstimates, a 15-degree angle (0-degree being flat on the ground) tilt is good for summertime. Wintertime is best at closer to a 60-degree angle (IIRC, could be wrong!)--and if your panels are at 15-degree angle, they're basically tilted away from the sun in the wintertime. But something to keep in mind: if it's cloudy, the best panel angle is flatter (i.e. closer to 15 degrees), though then snow likes to build up on them. So many compromises!
  3. The fun of selling rebranded Chinese stuff...and the reselling company doesn't have the foggiest notion what's actually inside.......or how it even works.
  4. I initially bought a Morningstar Tristar TS-MPPT-60. It remains to date the best MPPT I've ever had. (Also the most costly 😉.) Super easy to interface to, very efficient (no fans), excellent array tracking, etc. Stellar A+ customer service as well. My unit currently has 44,547 hours on it, and I'm very happy with it. My biggest complaint is the 150v max input voltage--seeing as the higher wattage panels these days do so by increasing the voltage, and keeping the current closer to 8A. Works fine on the smaller panels I have, though. Added more solar a few years back, and utilized two Epever Tracer 8420AN MPPTs. I like them for the 80A output current, the 200v maximum DC input, AND the fanless design. However--as with any Chinese-designed units, they have their shortcomings/quirks. Most notably, the voltage regulation is SO slow that they will "overshoot" the desired battery voltage for several seconds if a large load (i.e. load on an inverter). And not by just a half volt, either. Epever's official solution is to set the "high battery voltage cutoff" so if their MPPT overshoots the specified voltage, it will shut itself off, then regroup and start over again. Quite stupid, but hey, like @TheButcher pointed out...good luck getting any improvement to the firmware of a Chinese-produced product. Sean is currently testing/trialing some AmpInvt MPPTs. Another Chinese company; obviously, I'm not keeping close tabs on Sean's system, but what I HAVE noticed when I've been at his place, is that these tend to fail at determining the actual MPPT point from the panels. In other words, they'll have the solar panel voltage down at battery voltage (i.e. 55v) in dark cloudy weather--which KILLS your power production. The max power point is somewhere past 100v--which with the "constant current" solar panel characteristic, means it's only able to produce HALF the power it should. These MPPTs also utilize fan cooling.
  5. I have always understood that warning to refer to the AC input--which can't handle a 3-wire AC input ("L1 N L2"), or the inverter will blow up due to a backfeed condition. Beyond that, there is absolutely no issue with split-phase output from an "AMG transformer." For that matter, there isn't any intrinsic design difference between the "5-wire" transformers and an "AMG 6-wire" transformer. Phase voltage imbalance is in most cases a complete non-issue--it's just the customer who notices it. As most appliances accept a fairly large voltage range, it generally won't hurt or affect appliances in any way. Most of the PJ inverters only regulate output voltage from a single 120v phase anyway--and often don't even have an AC output filter cap on the other phase. This is even on the "5-wire" transformers, one of which I have on my bench right now. The L2 wire goes directly from the transformer to the terminal block. No filtering or regulation whatsoever on the other phase--and that's a v9.0 PJ inverter with a copper-wound transformer.
  6. Panels do age over time, with a degredation of output. Wouldn't expect it to be hugely significant though. Regardless of that, solar panels will produce significantly more power in colder weather. You can see this from the solar panel datasheet, where the voltage, current and wattage temperature coefficient ratios are provided (usually in percent per degree Kelvin). The significant increase in solar panel voltage can cause system failures (due to overvoltage!) if not accounted for during design. Also worth keeping in mind that the power monitoring in the MPPTs may not be super accurate--and this could also explain the discrepancy you're seeing. (Even my expensive Morningstar Tristar TS-MPPT-60 registers a significantly higher amperage on the readout than I actually measure with a clamp DC ammeter, easily off by a whole amp. Not sure which one isn't reading right!)
  7. Again, this is distinction with absolutely no real-world difference. EVERY SINGLE PJ TRANSFORMER with a split-phase output...has TWO 120v secondary windings, wired in series. The junction point between the 2 coils is the Neutral line. If the two windings are put in series inside the transformer...if they're put in series at the crimp lugs on the end of the transformer wires...or if they're put in series externally with an "AMG" jumper wire, it makes NO electrical difference. I've even rewound an older copper-wound PJ transformer (with the colored insulation wires)...and the windings were series-connected internally at the "neutral" junction wire connection. If you unwind a PJ transformer, you'll find all 3 windings (the two 120v windings, and the "DC" side winding) are each separated with a layer of clear plastic wrap.
  8. I dunno where you get all this. There is no internal difference to the transformers, just how the wires are presented. There is no magic "5-wires" and "6-wires" transformer difference. The only practical difference is how the wires are presented. I have a "5-wire" ASL9 PJ transformer. It still has 2 secondary windings, just the same as the "AMG" transformers. The only difference on the "5-wires ASL9" is that the "middle" wires of the windings are both crimped into a single lug. I could literally cut one of the secondary windings' wires out of that lug, crimp them into a separate lug, and *bam* I'd have a "6-wire AMG" transformer. (Sure, the 2 windings probably won't be balanced voltagewise, but that has nothing to do with the point I'm making here.)
  9. No idea where you get this. The "AMG" version is based off the GS concept for rewiring the transformer for full output at different voltages. It is equally at home with a single-phase output, as well as a spit-phase output. Just rewire it as necessary. Only difference being that the PJ version only ever regulates 110v from one secondary winding...the other winding is unregulated and appears to also be unfiltered.
  10. Can you provide a photo of the control board pot? If there's 2 knobs, the other will adjust the internal battery voltage setpoints. Differentiating is as simple as twisting one of them...if the output voltage doesn't change, put it back where it was, and twist the other one. There's no science/rhyme or reason for the voltage adjustment...you'll just have to fire the inverter up with the cover off, and twist the knob while measuring the output voltage. You can ground the Neutral jumper wire on N1 - N2 if you want. Not going to hurt anything. Just remember that the inverter is not a ground source 😉. And use common electrical sense; the 4 output terminal wires are basically 2 transformer secondaries. Wired in parallel for 120v, wired in series for 240v.
  11. I will be very surprised if the inverter is capable of 4kw continuous. A much more reasonable continuous output expectation would be 2kw.
  12. Like @dickson said, this is for their LCD board. What "L" potentiometer are you referring to? On the control board internally? As long as you remove the other jumper wire--i.e. follow the "220v AMG" wiring diagram with just the single jumper wire between the "N1" and "N2" (no other jumper wires--common electrical sense). Technically you can. But first remember: the inverter is NOT a ground source. The pump ground should go to an electrical ground; you can also wire that same ground to the inverter chassis. If you wanted to ground the inverter "neutral", that would be fine as well.
  13. I personally am quite surprised how much a penny matters to PJ. I mean, literally, to a fault. But hey, people keep buying PJ inverters, so....!
  14. Nope. PJ has their own in-house designs manufactured to their files. They have no connection to Yiyen. As a matter of fact, Jack has in the past talked about buying an SMD placement machine so they could literally assemble their own boards in-house. The only similarity between Yiyen and PJ (and for that matter, ALL other Chinese LF manufacturers, including Growatt, Aims, etc., etc.)...is that they all copied the exact same initial inverter PCB design to start with. Reportedly, this was an older Xantrex inverter.
  15. It's funny how they get stuff completely wrong. The different FET drive connectors is directly my fault in a way--but they evidently completely misunderstood what I was saying. Basically, the little 28AWG ribbon cable is going to have a problem running the several-amp FET drive signals--so I told them they'd be better off with a 20-22AWG cable. Well, that won't fit in the IDC connector--so they switched to XHB-10 connectors on the board. Then for whatever ridiculous reason...kept the 28AWG ribbon cable. Might as well have stuck with the IDC connector... Sounds like Jack's plan worked: "we want to stop MOS burn, make charge amps same on all inverter size." Success: FETs shouldn't burn out as easily (well, more or less!), and charge amps are reduced 😉. "HZ gets out of hand"? Can you clarify this one?? The biggest limitation for surge LIKELY is the transformer windings (especially if you're running 12v or 24v). The DC resistance can be so high that a transformer "battery side" winding deadshorted across the battery may not pull enough power to meet your surge load--and a deadshort will provide absolutely no output power. (Any useable output power will be far lower than the deadshort rating.) The firmware does not have any dynamic power limiting, so unless it shuts down with an overload condition, the lack of surge ability is directly a result of the system design (input power wires, FETs, FET drive, transformer losses, etc., etc.) If the firmware overruns the max (which it will if full throttle *2 isn't enough), you'll get a repeated "warping" sound from the inverter until it shuts down. There is no "program change" to reduce output current limits. The only modifications from stock PJ firmware, was to make the fan output controlled by both thermistors, and to compile for the different CPU so it would work. PJ does not write/modify the code of their products. That's why all of the changes have been external to the CPU, with adding parts/chips to the control board to try to adjust the firmware behavior.
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